tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-90348958719188309072024-03-18T13:37:06.764+06:00Trekking in TajikistanThis blog provides information about trekking in the Pamir Mountains and the Zerafshan Range in Tajikistan and the Afghan Wakhan Corridor. These mountains ranges are considered one of the most desolate and least visited regions in the world. All photographs and text on this website is subject to copyright © Jan Bakker 2009-2020Trekking in the Pamirs!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14277765227064469308noreply@blogger.comBlogger45125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9034895871918830907.post-53949793200887000162023-04-27T14:48:00.001+06:002023-04-27T14:48:43.725+06:00<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="300" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/c4AFWtCnNZs" width="361" youtube-src-id="c4AFWtCnNZs"></iframe></div><br /><p></p><p><br /></p>Trekking in the Pamirs!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14277765227064469308noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9034895871918830907.post-1038557194060230922020-11-26T18:05:00.006+06:002020-11-26T18:10:14.600+06:00Pamirtrail.org is live!<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="pamirtrail.org" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="1626" data-original-width="1626" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhplyzruUgiZLT-H53uGIJ00BzE6Lm45JiuToXktUCOkCw5v9a2-gQb58QbVNG_dyXvj8okSrEHn_CMaVxZfSNWtqLK0VN14LMuVCZ546Kd74qxns8-ICVLqv_7oobMyG69PTR28C03Kke5/w400-h400/PT+OFFICIAL+LOGO+V1+WITH+A+BLACK+BACKGROUND+V2PAMIR+TRAIL.png" width="400" /></a></div><br /><br />Trekking in the Pamirs!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14277765227064469308noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9034895871918830907.post-75403557377668999552020-06-26T15:12:00.009+06:002020-06-28T13:42:09.761+06:00Fundraiser to create the Pamir Trail<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><font face="arial" size="2"><br /></font></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNePzYIH8rvG8mTe_y_0ejujzeRJmjwtgc-ipLJHrgEOuMztGRymUnz5Arjn1nJ4_L_HWSa9-tkksocisneNNhLSoIfrhBVRUCF7WdDge5LtpcrnKZjaPXjclUIXOwog4puV5nUGedAjb2/s3456/2012-07-31+06.38.21.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><font face="arial" size="2"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3456" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNePzYIH8rvG8mTe_y_0ejujzeRJmjwtgc-ipLJHrgEOuMztGRymUnz5Arjn1nJ4_L_HWSa9-tkksocisneNNhLSoIfrhBVRUCF7WdDge5LtpcrnKZjaPXjclUIXOwog4puV5nUGedAjb2/w320-h240/2012-07-31+06.38.21.jpg" width="320" /></font></a></div><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><font face="arial" size="2">The lockdown period unlocked a dream I have had for many years. The creation of a long-distance hiking route across Tajikistan. My guidebook Trekking in Tajikistan may have made a difference in inspiring people to visit the mountains of this stunning country. The Pamir Trail, as I would like to call this route, is plotted from the northeast of the country to the Wakhan Corridor in the far south. It is designed in a way that it would benefit 30 home stays along the trail and more than a dozen local tour operators. 1022km, 67 stages, 25,000m+ altitude difference, 5000m mountain passes, glaciers, turquoise lakes and warm and welcoming people. </font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><font face="arial" size="2"><br /></font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTCO8u7QW0nJiYloQwOht4RyoeBr9VqnXxpwWdYk2BbLJCkuFeFELn92rnXK-xsMFkKZSKSqbRPQ_TBUThhC04RJc2n_tM89_B2Gf6rDOAkXD5vz6u3iDr4mfxcwOQ-jCJ7tQ-EHQSEjpv/s1280/Pamir+Trail+Map.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><font color="#000000" face="arial" size="2"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1280" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTCO8u7QW0nJiYloQwOht4RyoeBr9VqnXxpwWdYk2BbLJCkuFeFELn92rnXK-xsMFkKZSKSqbRPQ_TBUThhC04RJc2n_tM89_B2Gf6rDOAkXD5vz6u3iDr4mfxcwOQ-jCJ7tQ-EHQSEjpv/w400-h250/Pamir+Trail+Map.jpg" width="400" /></font></a></div><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><font face="arial" size="2"><br /></font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><font face="arial" size="2">29 stages have been documented already. I started a fundraiser to track, map, describe, photograph and film the remaining 38 stages in the summers of 2021 and 2022. A small donation would already be a massive help in establishing this epic hiking trail that could boost Tajikistan’s rural economy. 75% of the funds will be used to finance the complex logistics. The remainder is to produce a short film and set up the page <a href="www.pamirtrail.org" target="_blank">pamirtrail.org</a>. A donation and/or sharing the fundraiser page would be much appreciated. Thanks!</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><font face="arial" size="2"><br /></font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><font face="arial" size="2"><span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://www.gofundme.com/f/creating-the-pamir-trail-across-Tajikistan">https://www.gofundme.com/f/creating-the-pamir-trail-across-Tajikistan</a></span><o:p></o:p></font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><o:p><font face="arial" size="2"> </font></o:p></p>Trekking in the Pamirs!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14277765227064469308noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9034895871918830907.post-66065281311620373102018-08-10T19:02:00.003+06:002018-11-28T13:34:41.455+06:00Trekking in Tajikistan is now available<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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I'm proud to announce that the very first printed edition of the guidebook Trekking in Tajikistan is now available. This project has come full circle after 9 years of making the decision to dedicate my time to promote trekking in the mountains of Tajikistan. I teamed up with Christine Oriol, who is one of the trainers and co-founders of <a href="https://www.womenrockinpamirs.org/en/women-rockin-pamirs/" target="_blank">Women Rockin' Pamirs</a>, to turn the earlier published PDF into a real comprehensive trekking guide. It will be published by renowned UK publisher Cicerone Press, known for their outdoor guides and particularly walking guides. The cooperation has been great and I'm very happy to show this labour of love to the world. Book orders can be made via <a href="https://www.cicerone.co.uk/trekking-in-tajikistan" target="_blank">Cicerone Press</a> among many other web shops and quality book stores. Cicerone ships worldwide for a very reasonable price. The self-published PDF Trekking in Tajikistan is not available anymore.</div>
Trekking in the Pamirs!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14277765227064469308noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9034895871918830907.post-22087210983266646072018-05-25T12:43:00.001+06:002018-05-25T12:43:52.565+06:00Women Rockin' Pamirs launch new website<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Women Rockin' Pamirs is a great initiative that aims to train Pamiri women to become a trekking guide in their home mountains, the Tajik Pamirs. This month they have launched <a href="https://www.womenrockinpamirs.org/en/women-rockin-pamirs/" target="_blank">a new website</a> full of information about the project. They have also started advertising two exciting new trekking expeditions, guided exclusively by female Pamiri guides who have completed their training. Some of them have already worked on high profile adventures, such as guiding National Geographic explorer Paul Salopek on his Tajikistan stretch of the <a href="https://www.nationalgeographic.org/projects/out-of-eden-walk/blogs/lab-talk/2017-10-how-it-possible-girl/" target="_blank">Out of Eden walk</a>.</div>
Trekking in the Pamirs!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14277765227064469308noreply@blogger.com128tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9034895871918830907.post-87977064421186326002016-11-02T21:00:00.001+06:002016-11-02T21:00:16.752+06:00New Pamir trekking route: Bulunkul - Bardara<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
In 2012 I did a loop in the Southern Pamirs around Bachor, passing some amazing alpine lakes. In the late summer of 2016 I came back to the same area, this time to guide a group of trekkers. The route would be linear rather than circular and I had a feeling this route could be a world class adventure.<br />
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After a brilliant detour through the Shakhdara Valley our jeeps crossed the Koitezek Pass, the highest point on the Pamir Highway and the regional border between the Khorog and the Murghab administrations. A couple of hours later we arrived at the starting point of our trek, Bulunkul at around 3750m. This village is said to be the coldest inhabitable place in Central Asia (once the mercury plummeted down to minus 63 Celsius!!). The dusty hamlet has two home stays and a few yurts to stay at and a couple of shops where basic supplies can be bought.</div>
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The following day we hit the easy trail towards Sumantash, a historical site with an ancient caravanserai and a shrine. After three hours we arrived at Sumantash, although to our surprise we first had to wade the Alichur river. In September the water levels are usually at the lowest, not this time! We ferried all equipment across and decided to set up camp. It is possible to push on a couple of hours more for another good camp spot at Marjanay, later more about this.</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>View from a ridge near the camp spot at Sumantash</i></span></div>
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Day 2: From Sumantash we follow the dirt track that runs parallel to the north shore of Yashilkul, a beautiful and fairly large lake (4th largest lake in Tajikistan). We plan a lunch break at the Marjanay Valley, a wide typical Pamir valley with good water sources and camp grounds. Higher up the valley you can find pre-historic stone circles. After crossing the Marjanay River (you probably have to wade it in summer) we rejoin the route which is now a well-worn walking path. It almost touches the chilly waters of Yashilkul. Just before our second camp we have to overcome a small cliff. The sections to overcome the steeper parts of the cliff are a bit technical but it's clear where to go. After a final climb we can see the stream where we will camp at. But we first have to wade through the ice cold water. We set up camp on the sandy part which is basically on an island in the small delta. The soil on the far end of the delta is all wet (and likely to be all trekking season).</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Trying to find the shallowest part of the stream to reach camp 2</i></span></div>
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First thing in the morning we have to find the shallowest part of the stream, which isn't easy. Walk a few minutes upstream where the stream bends left (going up). Right at the end of the bend you start wading, walking downstream on a shallow part of the stream bottom. Gradually you traverse to the other side. The water is cold. Good luck! Once you've done the crossing it's easy cruising to the end of Yashilkul. Approximately one kilometre before the natural dam there is an excellent camp spot that shepherds use. Shortly after this point we start the climb to a small pass that leads us to the Langar Valley. We pitch our tents at 3960m where we have stunning views of the Shugnan Range in the south.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Trekkers heading up the small pass that is the gateway to Langar Valley</i></span><br />
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The next day we aim for the Langar Pass (4630m). The climb is gradual while staying on the true left (so right as you go up) side of the river. Every now and then there are little stone markers along the trail. As we approach the pass the trail sometimes fades away to appear again a few hundred metres further. On your left you can see some stunning icy peaks of over 5000 metres. After reaching the pass we descend to our next camp at 4570m on the shores of the little turquoise lake, just below the pass. The ground and water sources are not great but the views are absolutely amazing and the tents are in the sun for a large part of the day. If you still have some energy left you could go for the 3 hour return side trip to Chapdar Kul. <br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Our camp just below the Langar Pass</i></span><br />
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We are leaving camp with the prospect of thicker air. First we drop 200 vertical metres on our way to Uchkul, a series of three amazing lakes with the glaciated peak of Mt Kulin in the distance. We pass a massive herd of yaks, who are apparently owned by our local guide Aliq. We revisit the family I met in 2012 and they treat us to a lovely lunch of fresh yoghurt and bread. It's good to hear that the eldest son has been accepted for an education program funded by the Aga Khan Foundation. After lunch we continue walking towards the end of Uchkul where we descend a further 150 metres towards the confluence of several rivers that drain into Lake Sarez. We set up camp near another shepherds settlement.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Crossing a typical Pamiri bridge</i></span><br />
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The following morning we're moving on in the direction of our highlight of this trek. The magical Zarojkul. An easy climb takes us to a series of four alpine lakes, each of them different in colour and located in a different landscape. It takes four hours to reach Zarojkul. What a place! We are treated to snowy showers, which adds drama to the place. This will be our base for the next two days, to rest and explore the direct surroundings.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Zarojkul in all its glory. Yes, that's the real colour!</i></span><br />
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Trekkers taking in the view of a 6000m+ peak soaring above Zarojkul</span></i><br />
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To see Zarojkul at its best, try to hike up a high point so you can see it from above. A whole different perspective!<br />
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After a few days enjoying Zarojkul we geared up for the toughest day of the trek. The crossing of the 4840m Shtik Lazar pass. We backtrack our footsteps for half an hour to the foot of the pass. A steep, rocky path zigzags up the narrow valley on the left. After an hour we reach the glacier that covers Shtik Lazar. In September there is no snow, there will be in early trekking season. Crampons and axe are not required in our case, but this might be the case in other months. We keep to the right, avoiding the big crevasses that are clearly visible. The actual highest point of Shtik Lazar is just after the glacier on the moraines. The descent to the Bardara Valley is long and the walking is hard-going. Lots of loose scree, steep angles and slippery slopes. Despite this don't forget to look around! Impressive hanging glaciers and mountain faces make the trip a bit more bearable. As we finally reach the Bardara valley we cross the river (wading, this could be deep in early season) and head downstream where you can find several campsites within a couple of kilometres.<br />
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Crossing the Bardara River. From here it's down!</span></i><br />
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The walk from the top of the Bardara Valley to the village of Bardrara is long (20km) but lovely. There is only one river crossing and it's the deepest one on the trek. You might end up walking upstream to find a suitable place to cross. We used donkeys for the crossing.<br />
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Gradually trees appear in the landscape and cultivated land. When we approach Bardara it feels like we enter Shangri-La. It's such a peaceful place. We could stick around for a while!<br />
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This trip was organised by UK based <a href="http://www.untamedborders.com/trekking-tajikistan-pamir-mountain-lakes/" target="_blank">Untamed Borders</a>.<br />
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Trekking in the Pamirs!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14277765227064469308noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9034895871918830907.post-79862427517754136442016-07-17T03:19:00.000+06:002016-07-17T03:19:09.618+06:00Help Pamiri women to become a trekking guide in the Pamirs!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
This summer of 2016 five Pamiri women will be trained as a trekking guide, so they can start a professional career guiding visitors the mountains they grew up in. Support this amazing initiative, by donating but also by asking for female guides when you plan a trek in the Pamirs. Donations can be made through their <a href="https://www.ulule.com/women-rockin-pamirs/" target="_blank">crowd funding page</a>.<br />
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Trekking in the Pamirs!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14277765227064469308noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9034895871918830907.post-55351495128755847972016-06-07T02:13:00.000+06:002016-06-07T02:13:00.944+06:00Fundraiser for new bridge in Bachor region<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Earlier this year the bridge that connects Yashilkul and Zarojkul with the beautiful Pamiri village of Bachor was washed away by the Andaravj River. Our friends in Bachor who organise treks in this area, are raising funds to get the bridge repaired. If you have some cash to spare and want to keep the trekking route between these key places open, please go the <a href="https://www.gofundme.com/cbtpamirs" target="_blank">this page</a> and make a small donation to this great cause. Thanks! Below is the bridge we're talking about.</span><br />
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Trekking in the Pamirs!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14277765227064469308noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9034895871918830907.post-49928678531925874452015-07-28T23:12:00.000+06:002015-07-28T23:12:43.451+06:00The Fann Mountains revisited<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<i>View of Alaudin Lakes from Alaudin Pass</i></div>
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Three years ago I traversed the Fann Mountains with my
friend Pete. Now, at the start of the summer 2015 I’m back with our mutual
friends, Clare and Jerome. Inspired by the photos we had taken in 2012 Clare
decided the Tajik mountains was a good place to celebrate her 50<sup>th</sup>
birthday.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Upon arrival there was something strange going on. Instead
of forming a half moon shaped line in the tiny and chaotic arrival hall, we
entered a bright lit, shiny and swanky terminal. Was this really Dushanbe
Airport? Although it used to be mahem I kind of miss it…<o:p></o:p></div>
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After a day of adjusting to the heat and general
acclimatising in Dushanbe we were headed for Penjikent. Umed Ashurov, our host,
warned us about road works en route. It may take a bit longer. The first
infrastructural hurdle is the infamous Anzob Tunnel. We entered the tunnel and
came to a stand still somewhere half way. It didn’t look very promising. Two
lorries were unable to pass each other. For one hour nothing happened. Than
things started stirring, with workers and a police man agressively trying to
demand cars to reverse. Long story short, after 2.5 hours and being high on
exhaust fumes, we managed to leave the 5km tunnel. I’m sure this event took at
least a year from my life (so if I die at 97 instead of 98 you know why!).
There was another less significant hold up as they were welding a bridge over
the mighty Zerafshan River (probably a good thing to let them do their job
properly). After nine exhausting hours we received a warm welcome at Umed’s
family residence in Penjikent.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<i>Stuck in the Anzob Tunnel, not the healthiest place on the planet…</i></div>
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We planned a six day trek through the heart of the Fann
Mountains, doing the Lakes Loop trek with an extension to Chukurak and
finishing at the village of Zimtud. We spent the first night in the rather
bombastic Soviet era mountain hut near Artush village. Here we met our
entourage, who would spend the next six days with us. Our local guide and
translator Dovood appeared to be a very chatty guy. We were all itching to hit
the trail. The first stage involved a 700m climb up the biggest lake in the
Fann Mountains, Kulikalon. It became painfully clear that some acclimatisation
was needed. Though technically easy, the trail is pretty steep at times. After
three hours of hard work we reached Kulikalon. The backdrop of the peak named
“Maria” (after a Russian female climber who fell of the 1500m high north face)
makes this place probably one of the most spectacular camp spots in Central
Asia. The first true challenge was scaling the 3780m high Alaudin Pass. The
combination altitude, bad stomach and 1000 vertical metres made this climb for
Jerome a true ordeal. But he summited and a few tears were shed by seeing the
unbelievable blue-green colours of the Alaudin Lakes. Down hill might have been
even tougher than uphill. Steep scree battered the knees and mental energy. The
intimidating echoes of the thunder storm made us duck for cover every time.
Knackered we entered our camp on the shores of Alaudin Lake.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<i>Stunning views on Maria Peak, en route to the Alaudin Pass</i></div>
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The third day was meant to be a resting day. But we found
this beautiful objective, visible from the west shore of Alaudin Lake. On the
north face of Chapdara mountain we could see a massive hanging glacier glued on
the vertical wall. I had been there in 2010 and knew you could get really close
to it. So off we went, struggling up this steep grassy slope. The terrain
changed to scree and as we approached the snout of the glacier we had to climb
up the moraines. Hard work but absolutely worth the effort. On our way back we
managed to squeeze in a little bouldering session. The juniper forest around
Alaudin almost looks like a bonzai garden. Very surreal. At day four we were
heading back into western direction, trying to tackle the 3680m high Laudan
Pass. After the Russian climbing camp we found the trail zigzagging up through
the juniper forest. Above the tree line we were yet treated by a friendly
looking landscape. The mountains here had a green, lush carpet of grass. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNhnyBJz9iqHHimiX_81EMnvI7jHEQyJHx9EWFJIIPKiNiVP5fa8fysqeED7AggJHTAlfx_OYjTfI-nk1DYpVsu0k39Gl6L9LGwnzdO8ipnF8-8lHd5L-nq0wWo-6MXdVfYJ-uvRjx_1pC/s1600/Fann10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNhnyBJz9iqHHimiX_81EMnvI7jHEQyJHx9EWFJIIPKiNiVP5fa8fysqeED7AggJHTAlfx_OYjTfI-nk1DYpVsu0k39Gl6L9LGwnzdO8ipnF8-8lHd5L-nq0wWo-6MXdVfYJ-uvRjx_1pC/s400/Fann10.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>Clare at the snout of the tumbling glacier off Chapdara Mountain</i></div>
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After a false summit, Laudan Pass was finally visible. After two days we were descending back to Kulikalon, this time we planned to camp on the other side towards the Zierat Pass. We found a green little island in Kulikalon with a small stone causeway leading to it. Just as we had set up the tent it started pissing down with rain. This was basically the story every day. But somehow we managed to dodge the at times heavy showers by finding a cave or setting up camp in the nick of time. The Zierat Pass looked a bit daunting with no obvious trail and its steep slopes. From all the passes this was probably, at least psychologically, the toughest. Steep and monotonous. The other side is more interesting with a shallow green lake (Zierat Lake) and down to the fantastic Chukurak Lake. The latter is actually just 30 minutes up from the Alplager mountain hut. The hard way is better though!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWhrwNVRLU98n1NgpRaqrqOCrniVu9t5Nrt_-8P3yvbx-LXrVBXoiNIgBXyIN3ElwE8s06y5XxV_HLTqqv8XWfrFbHdQ8eKZt0fb8zlxahy8hyphenhyphenIQXcVO-a-7n_TUREboCQeKGbr9WahAZQ/s1600/Fann19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWhrwNVRLU98n1NgpRaqrqOCrniVu9t5Nrt_-8P3yvbx-LXrVBXoiNIgBXyIN3ElwE8s06y5XxV_HLTqqv8XWfrFbHdQ8eKZt0fb8zlxahy8hyphenhyphenIQXcVO-a-7n_TUREboCQeKGbr9WahAZQ/s400/Fann19.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>The last high pass, the 3340m Zierat Pass. Hard work!</i></div>
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Unfortunately it was Clare's turn for violent sickness. With just one day to go it became unsure whether we could complete the trek to Zimtud. The 6th and last day we gave it a go, Jerome and I by foot and Clare on a donkey. Although she was still feeling weak and ill we managed to reach Zimtud, via the village Guitan where we were invited for a generous lunch by our donkey manager Hikmet.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxvcQcypFGZULd_gQ3sKE9IHHoCIl-D_1dNMsPcnrM4GW3Ptw1X9gNULgQ_eJMxqnQ1jy3J8AfYU3SvKdRYuL5h34DQDReJC79MRkqFZZ3kVBo_yFJzJo3Oh9Cu4CRqeSZbTPQWWKe2u_6/s1600/Fann8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxvcQcypFGZULd_gQ3sKE9IHHoCIl-D_1dNMsPcnrM4GW3Ptw1X9gNULgQ_eJMxqnQ1jy3J8AfYU3SvKdRYuL5h34DQDReJC79MRkqFZZ3kVBo_yFJzJo3Oh9Cu4CRqeSZbTPQWWKe2u_6/s400/Fann8.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>Alaudin Lake</i></div>
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Trekking in the Pamirs!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14277765227064469308noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9034895871918830907.post-50063896374873087112014-12-14T14:57:00.000+06:002014-12-17T03:13:33.503+06:00Guidebook Trekking in Tajikistan available!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="http://www.blurb.co.uk/b/5053420-trekking-in-tajikistan" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-qeFx56-IQtX-_7crpH1PFBwMXoQMqk2tZJMR7H35bqgYDZ99q3YiECS8zNc9-7Y26ziJAq5ipMCA1v9qm6FR0_R1KKK-gfkm_FrJN3CYytFcP5mS68uBbLlS2cPpLixppU9kK7QmpUBX/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-01-31+at+09.37.28.png" height="392" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">3 years, 693km of
trails, more than 28,000 altimetres of ascent and many, many hours of writing and editing it's finally ready: the very first guidebook dedicated entirely to trekking in Tajikistan. The book describes 8 treks in the North of Tajikistan as well as The Pamirs, plus a 12-day trek in the Afghan Wakhan Corridor. Each trek is illustrated with easy to read maps, inspiring photography and detailed trail info. And of course it includes information how to get to the trailheads, what to think of when you organise a trek in Tajikistan and which organisation can help you further. This book does not describe general information about Tajikistan. If you want to know which hotel to choose in Dushanbe or background information on caravanserais of the Wakhan I advise to buy a general guidebook. To preview the book go to the <a href="http://www.trekkinginthepamirs.com/p/order-guidebook.html" target="_blank">Order Guidebook</a> page or click on the photo above. The book is not in print yet, I am looking for a publisher to get it on the shelves. On the <a href="http://www.trekkinginthepamirs.com/p/order-guidebook.html" target="_blank">Order Guidebook</a> page you can get the book in PDF (€6), handy for tablet/smart phone use.</span></div>
Trekking in the Pamirs!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14277765227064469308noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9034895871918830907.post-8527975351650537882014-10-09T14:53:00.002+06:002014-10-09T14:56:11.071+06:00Publication article Wakhan Corridor on Sidetracked.com<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I'm very proud <a href="http://sidetracked.com/">Sidetracked.com</a> has published an article on my trek in the Wakhan in 2010. I consider Sidetracked.com as the leading online adventure magazine. Amazing photography and inspiring articles. I feel honoured to be featured in it! See below for a link to the article:<br />
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<a href="http://www.sidetracked.com/short-walk-afghanistan/" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1ITDL14MjpSTbLFaP_I1wU_S6rAuBBa0sZK4R9RLQs2WwMzWIypCxE2V_ypRHuzTRhh26wE14AP3Ov-_RrPVC0qLGXJkilX1O4sci3-SLFId9IWkbnAZDn-XZttzO_aRHLKtPUmRD0FC4/s1600/FrontPageST.jpg" height="191" width="400" /></a></div>
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Trekking in the Pamirs!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14277765227064469308noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9034895871918830907.post-78444729902024073762014-08-31T17:41:00.003+06:002014-08-31T18:12:19.180+06:00New Wakhan trek: from Big Pamir to Little Pamir <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBaUWMDOvVmuxea20p793uJ9FusY9E400-iH4w913LGrXsgvML0yOmPNwKUFidwpBrBV5EUXgeaprpUN5NJCUcZXbyZUA4ewDCGxBo3GfZFdjiNYheW6lf8_6-TdxJ9c76ng8q_0Vx884A/s1600/High+Pamir+Camp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBaUWMDOvVmuxea20p793uJ9FusY9E400-iH4w913LGrXsgvML0yOmPNwKUFidwpBrBV5EUXgeaprpUN5NJCUcZXbyZUA4ewDCGxBo3GfZFdjiNYheW6lf8_6-TdxJ9c76ng8q_0Vx884A/s1600/High+Pamir+Camp.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">High camp Showr Pass</span></i></div>
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3.53 in the morning. I should be completely knackered,
having travelled for almost 24 hours to get here. But I don’t. Instead, standing
in line (well, sort of a line), waiting to be admitted into Tajikistan almost
feels like coming home. There’s always a bit of uncertainty whether they let me
in or not. Everything on the visa is correct, but still…<o:p></o:p></div>
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A few hours later, after breakfast and a quick shower, the
expedition is on its way. We’ll be spending at least four days in the car, just
to reach the trailhead of our trek. In my mind I break the journey down in two.
First the team has to get into Afghanistan. After that, having arranged the
permits and transport, we have another two days of bone-rattling road ahead of
us.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Our 4x4 en route into the Wakhan</span></i></div>
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Although the Afghan border closes at 4pm (still an hour
early), apparently the border police on both sides have been waiting for us. The
end of Ramadan is near and they wanted to close the border hours ago. We are
likely to be the only travellers to cross today, so let’s see what the extra “fee”
will be. The transit on the Tajik side goes smoothly. The Afghani border guards
urge us to hurry, they just want to call it a day. My fellow tour leader Luca
deals with the financial compensation of their extremely generous “extra
service” in a backroom, and after a quick check in our duffle bags on alcohol
and other contraband we are good to go. Enter Afghanistan!!<o:p></o:p></div>
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The road into the Wakhan Corridor is terrible. I forgot
about it (it’s been four years) and will forget about it again. But while on
it, well, I’m not going to make it more romantic than it is: Dust, massive
bumps and potholes and heat make it an arduous journey. However (and I will
contradict myself from the previous sentence), moving with an average speed of
20km/h does have its benefits. It enables us to catch a glimpse of the hidden
valleys of the Hindu Kush. Tumbling glaciers reveal themselves for just one
moment, letting the imagination wander off for the next hour. The slow pace
allows us to take in the rhythm of daily life in the mud brick villages of the
Wakhan. Women in beautiful red robes are working the land, a sight hard to
imagine in contemporary Afghanistan. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Packing the yaks</span></i></div>
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Introducing Malang. Malang is our jack of all trades in this
part of the world. In 2009 he became the first Afghan to climb Afghanistan’s
highest mountain, Noshaq (7492m). This earned him a true celebrity status, with
coverage on national television and even in the international mainstream media.
Locally he is deeply respected and we are honoured to have him on board of our
expedition. <o:p></o:p></div>
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As we progress eastwards, the river valley splits. The left
fork keeps following the Tajik border. We take the right fork along the Wakhan river.
This valley is wedged between the mighty peaks of the Pamirs and the Hindu
Kush. Today we aim to reach the final settlement in this valley, Sarhad-e-Broghil. But shortly after we are forced to rethink our plans. At the village of Sargaz the bridge is missing some vital parts for a safe crossing. We check the old road, and the existence of that bridge is justified. It's swallowed by the Wakhan River. The plan is to check early next morning, but deep down we all know we will have to change our itinerary. The river level is not going to drop 2 metres overnight… Lucky for us Sargaz is blessed with a hot spring, so our short term luxury needs are taken care of.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p> We decide to head back to Wuzed and approach the Big Pamir plateau from there. The Sargaz Pass is over 4800m and the team is not acclimatised enough. Our first day up the Wuzed Pass will be a 1000m ascend, which is also far from ideal. But with three nights at around 2900m we should manage. Malang already ordered our pack animals and Luca and I are taking care of the weighing of the cargo (892kg…!).</o:p></div>
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Yak crossing, easy going!</span></i></div>
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With 17 yaks, 5 local guides and helpers and 12 team members
the expedition is on its way. 10 minutes on the trail and we have to tackle the
first and biggest river crossing of the entire route. The local horseman
ferries the team across, in freezing cold and hip high water. He is the
instant hero of the trip (and keeps that status throughout). On the map the
ascend through the gorge up the Wuzed Pass (4425m) looks impossibly steep. In
reality it’s not too bad. However, scaling over a thousand altimetres to reach
the first <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">aylaq</i> (summer pasture) is a
true challenge. The air is thin, dry and dusty and I hope we all cope with the
altitude. After the 8km slog up, I look over my shoulder I realise this is why we are here. The spiky,
glaciated peaks of the Hindu Kush dominate the horizon and I feel privileged to be in this desolate, beautiful place. Content I’m pitching my
tent.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The next day we reach the green, flat Wuzed Pass fairly quickly. It’s
surrounded by 5000m+ peaks, but most of us don't need that reminder to be aware of the high altitude. The slightest effort leaves us breathless. It's a short day and tonight we stay at the first Wakhi yurt settlement called Mulungdan at 4200m. This must be one of the best camp spots I have ever stayed. See the photograph below. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Mulungdan, 4200m</span></i></div>
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The next proper goal is climbing up the Big Pamir plateau. We pass numerous yurt settlements, all of them want their piece of the pie in the pack animal business. I agree with the idea to use the yaks and horses from different villages along the way, but having to load and offload the animals after two hours is not practical. We hope to use them next year. Another big river looms in the distance: the Shirkarga River. The valley is one of the main research areas for the Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS), and harbours Marco Polo sheep, Ibex and therefore also snow leopard. The murky, glacial stream is freezing cold but our yak taxis are ready to get us to the other side. Just 400 vertical metres separates the team and the entry to the Big Pamir. A couple of hours later as we reach the plateau we are looking over a vast high altitude desert with the Tajik Pamirs in north and Lake Zorkul somewhere in the east. The bad-e-Wakhan (120-day wind) pushes us to the next camp, Manjalang.<br />
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Our cook/river cabbie Inayat</span></i><br />
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The next three days on the plateau are tougher than I thought. There are no long climbs along this part of the route, but the subtle ups and downs do drain the energy levels slowly. Every day we cross a few rivers (all are possible to wade, but most choose yak or horse). The team stays partly in tents, and a few nights in the village yurts. This part of the Wakhan is dry and desert like. Looking south the roof of the Big Pamir is visible with massive glaciers. I wonder how many of these peaks actually have been climbed. Now we're in Kyrgyz territory and horses seem to have taken over as pack animals. The highest point on this expedition is getting closer: the 4895m Showr Pass.<br />
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Sunset over the Tajik Pamirs</span></i><br />
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A delay during an expedition is normally something undesirable. However, if a game of buzkashi is the reason, you can't complain really! We extend our stay in the settlement of Mula a bit longer. All the horses are participating in the buzkashi game, drawing players from the villages around Mula. For those who don't know this game: a couple of dozen horses and men play a game that aims to sink a dead headless goat's/sheep's corpse into a hole in the ground. It's each on their own, and it is rough. Horsemen try to steal the corpse from a competitor and score a point. There is no real pitch boundaries so occasionally the crowd has to run for their lives to avoid being trampled. We are lucky to bump into a buzkashi game. It is spectacular, thrilling and at times pretty scary as a spectator.<br />
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Two horsemen pulling a sheep's corpse</span></i><br />
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The following day we are heading for the foot of the Showr Pass. After a false start and some re-negotiating with the Kyrgyz pack animal manager, we are on our way. The valley is fantastic and the pass is already visible. We make it a short day and pitch our tents at a beautiful aylaq with a blue-green mountain lake. Tonight we'll make an early start so we'll reach the top of the pass before it's too hot. Getting up at night to tackle a mountain pass or summit is magical: the anticipation and the incoming morning light are worth getting up for at 3am. The team huddles together at a yak dung fire and tries to down some breakfast (lucky for me no porridge today!).<br />
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Getting ready for the Showr Pass</span></i><br />
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The approach to the pass seems impenetrable. The only thing you can see is massive boulders, scree and snow. But a little goat path winds its way all the way to the top, and again it's surprisingly easy going. 5 hours later we're on the top. I instantly fall in love with the nameless mountain on the side of the pass (gotta climb it!!).<br />
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Crossing the glacier just after the Showr Pass</span></i><br />
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We spend an hour on the pass and prepare ourselves mentally for the long way down to Chapdara, our next camp. The terrain is easy, the views are out of this world but the distances are deceptive. It takes us almost another 8 hours to reach camp. The team is knackered and we buy a sheep to celebrate. Two days and a 4700m pass ahead of us to reach Sarhad-e-Broghil. The next day disaster strikes. One of our local guys, Azim, gets stuck in one of the yak's stirrups. The yak gets a scare and starts running, dragging Azim on the rocky ground after him. Everybody is in shock. After 100 metres he's released from the stirrups but initially it looks very bad. He's still conscience, and we try to calm him down. With the next medical facility days away from where we are, this could be a very dangerous situation. We treat his wounds and hope he doesn't suffer any concussion. He seems to have escaped with minor injuries, but we keep an eye on him.<br />
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Picture perfect mountain lake</span></i><br />
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The final day of the trek. Just 300 vertical metres and we're on the top of the last pass, the 4700m high Dara Bik Pass. Reaching the top this pass feels more of an achievement than getting up the Showr Pass. We watch the Hindu Kush, extending into Pakistan in awe. Now it's just down!! 1600 metres lower is Sarhad-e-Broghil. Apart from some tricky path sections it's smooth sailing all the way down. The hot spring and guesthouse are awaiting us!<br />
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Team member Monique riding</span></i></div>
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Trekking in the Pamirs!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14277765227064469308noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9034895871918830907.post-54516353564190340262013-07-08T17:58:00.001+06:002013-07-08T17:58:49.011+06:00GPS data for treks Bachor, Yagnob Valley and 7 Lakes<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I have found a way to share the GPS data I have collected during the last year's research in Tajikistan. Below you will find the links to the Garmin Connect website. It is very easy to send the data directly to your GPS. Have a thorough look at the tracks before setting out and please don't blindly follow it. There are small diversions (we did the treks with very little information, so occasionally we had to turn back and find a new route).<br />
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<a href="http://connect.garmin.com/activity/339325194" target="_blank">GPS data Yagnob Valley Trek</a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiceUBQSD5yuPI3Gfvmbn9XFKVHq9izSpa06AcDXpbq4ga-MQC8KRNdFD_9w4RFeDV2yIGCeCaSnu4ZwPysf3XnEnG_jjmAD4b0GrphS23L0fAumKiCGNTnuTzgFYzbpKBY92wO5znoY569/s1600/DSC00278.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiceUBQSD5yuPI3Gfvmbn9XFKVHq9izSpa06AcDXpbq4ga-MQC8KRNdFD_9w4RFeDV2yIGCeCaSnu4ZwPysf3XnEnG_jjmAD4b0GrphS23L0fAumKiCGNTnuTzgFYzbpKBY92wO5znoY569/s320/DSC00278.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://connect.garmin.com/activity/339327493" target="_blank">GPS data 7 Lakes Trek</a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7wrHMf9CQYPYkwFW4euaAx62kfHGmRALhP8LO4vvFS_1vBwhnhjvE4iPnZawCowIJ2cQymBi9RhESWzzOgS5kef4ugLo5hNyrW0gPoxgeGVXeBh5G02Ld5wfEmS7VKfTxxqVRxScosaSZ/s1600/P1060241.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7wrHMf9CQYPYkwFW4euaAx62kfHGmRALhP8LO4vvFS_1vBwhnhjvE4iPnZawCowIJ2cQymBi9RhESWzzOgS5kef4ugLo5hNyrW0gPoxgeGVXeBh5G02Ld5wfEmS7VKfTxxqVRxScosaSZ/s320/P1060241.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://connect.garmin.com/activity/339323387" target="_blank">GPS data Bachor Trek</a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA4DeOhUydDepKz3Wk6NtHhNNKyacz3Jir-kqr3CHM7AhZVIUyh4hIV_mCHHj3qnxy0WQokCczbp-YwslGPuR3WQAiCk1PITsHTsA7rCy7dNb4up8FTxR-TQY3IozPDu6L6mpaabkTUGPy/s1600/2012-08-02+07.14.15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA4DeOhUydDepKz3Wk6NtHhNNKyacz3Jir-kqr3CHM7AhZVIUyh4hIV_mCHHj3qnxy0WQokCczbp-YwslGPuR3WQAiCk1PITsHTsA7rCy7dNb4up8FTxR-TQY3IozPDu6L6mpaabkTUGPy/s320/2012-08-02+07.14.15.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Trekking in the Pamirs!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14277765227064469308noreply@blogger.com23tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9034895871918830907.post-29411190790745203112013-07-02T20:02:00.000+06:002013-07-03T15:58:41.352+06:00Circumnavigation Shakhdara Range by bicycle<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEP1yB2sB1gK-dTquYhlEqUwZEoSyftPxkKVa2vwcSvboNVo1vyC3JhdFQNDhtY35G4xoH8Rmobiv89UcQdcguf2YShawHH_JfUhG3EkOKxAlJD1CbyqKjPd8KQraGHTWkDdtGfQHSdTbG/s1600/P1010354.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEP1yB2sB1gK-dTquYhlEqUwZEoSyftPxkKVa2vwcSvboNVo1vyC3JhdFQNDhtY35G4xoH8Rmobiv89UcQdcguf2YShawHH_JfUhG3EkOKxAlJD1CbyqKjPd8KQraGHTWkDdtGfQHSdTbG/s400/P1010354.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">On the Khargush Pass (4344m)</span></i><br />
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This website this aimed at hikers, but discovering the beauty of Tajikistan all started with a fantastic bicycle ride in October 2009. For those who want to do an independent cycle tour for around 8-12 days, the circumnavigation of the Shakhdara Range in the Southern Pamirs is probably one of the best options. There's no need to arrange additional transport apart from getting to Khorog and away again. The loop is about 650km (including a side trip to Bulunkul) and gives you everything the Pamirs has to offer. Great vistas of iconic mountains (Pik Engels and Pik Karl Marx), high mountain passes on one of the most spectacular roads in the world and a peek in the life of the people living in this harsh environment. Below I'll give you an idea how to organise it yourself.<br />
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">The Shakhdara route with camps</span></i><br />
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The best map to use is the map "The Pamirs" by Markus Hauser. From Dushanbe you can either try to fly to Khorog (this can take, like in our case, many days as the plane only flies when the weather is perfect). We chose to arrange a jeep for the two of us. The price changes almost every day. The last time I took a jeep from Khorog in 2012 it was around 350 Tajik Somini, about US$75. We paid for 5 people, as this was the only way to get a car exclusively. The trip takes normally around 16 hours, but many things can happen along the way that makes the journey a lot longer. In Khorog we stayed in Pamir Lodge, run by a nice family. The lodge is pretty basic (they were building at the time so maybe they have more comfy accommodation). The garden is great to prepare your bike and equipment.<br />
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Pamir Lodge, Khorog</span></i><br />
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Hit the road that's headed in the direction of Roshtqala. Just outside there's a check post where you will have to register and show your GBAO permit. The road is still surfaced and the incline is not too steep. The first night we stayed in the home stay in Vezdara (camp 0), because it is still populated here and to help the local economy a little bit. Shortly after Vezdara the road becomes a dirt track that follows the Shakhdara River. We set up camp 1 close to the hot spring between Jarajand and Nimos (which is for some reason not on the new Pamir map by Markus Hauser). Be prepared for some curious kids checking out the tent, as there are not many cyclists coming through. After Rubot the valley opens and you enter a spectacular plateau with great views of Pik Engels. It is easy to find a camp spot all along this stretch of road.<br />
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">The upper Shakhdara Valley</span></i><br />
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At the end of the valley a steep, rough climb up the Maisara Pass which is almost 4300m. 17km took us 3 hours... The descent on the other side towards the Pamir Highway is exhilarating, proper downhill mountain biking! We went down on a smooth road to Jelondy because they have a hotel and hot spring there (a very very hot hot spring). The next day we had to go back up with Bulunkul as the next destination. It is hard work climbing the Koitezek Pass (4271m), but once up the world of mountains here is stunning. Snowy peaks all around, hardly any cars apart from the odd Chinese lorry. We decided to stay in the lovely home stay in Bulunkul. This is a great place to stay a bit longer for walks near Yashikul and the mountains around it.<br />
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Koitezek Pass</span></i><br />
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Back track the road towards the Pamir Highway and just a few kilometres after entering it turn right on the dirt/sand track up the Kargush Pass (4344m). This is a tough section, obviously because it's high altitude and going up but the road is very sandy at places. Sometimes you just have to get off your bike and hike for a bit. After this pass it is essentially a 100km downhill (only a few small climbing sections). We set up camp along the Pamir River, which is the border with Afghanistan. We could see herds of yak going down to lower altitudes for the winter. Next stop Langar, a great little place and a good location to walk up to the base of Pik Engels (see trekking descriptions).<br />
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Camp along the Tajik/Afghan frontier</span></i><br />
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We did the stretch Langar to Ishkashim in two days, stopping over near Vrang. There are a couple of home stays here and again, a good base to see the archaeological sites. The cycling was hard going: lot's of sand on the road and in fact in the air. The wind was brutal. After Ishkahim where we stayed in the local hotel, we headed for Garm Chasma. Every Tajik knows this place and is raving about it. In 2009 it was a village under construction, but it lacked a bit of charm. The hot spring is pretty cool, well worth the 6km up the hill from the Ishkashim-Khorog road. After that is was straight to Khorog to enjoy the great hamburgers in the restaurant on the banks of the Ghund river.<br />
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">The Hindukush in the Wakhan Corridor and the Afghan market near Ishkashim</span></i><br />
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Trekking in the Pamirs!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14277765227064469308noreply@blogger.com71tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9034895871918830907.post-55739627012074638332013-06-24T01:43:00.003+06:002013-06-24T01:43:55.213+06:00Pamirs declared Unesco World Heritage Site<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Great news! The Pamirs have been declared a Unesco World Heritage Site. Hopefully the funding that comes with this declaration results in proper management of the area that's known as the Tajik National Park (which currently doesn't mean a lot). See the links below:<div>
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<a href="http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1252" target="_blank">Unesco</a></div>
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<a href="http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2013/06/pictures/130621-five-new-unesco-world-heritage-sites-conservation-environment/?source=hp_dl5_news_world_heritage_sites_20130622#/taji-national-park-tajikistan_68665_600x450.jpg" target="_blank">National Geographic</a></div>
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Trekking in the Pamirs!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14277765227064469308noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9034895871918830907.post-13708947911148823592012-11-29T17:34:00.001+06:002012-11-29T17:43:34.607+06:00Tajik Bridges...<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<iframe allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="mozallowfullscreen" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/54455113?badge=0" webkitallowfullscreen="webkitallowfullscreen" width="500"></iframe> <br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/54455113">Bridges of Tajikistan</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user13781112">Jan Bakker</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.</div>
Trekking in the Pamirs!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14277765227064469308noreply@blogger.com1M41, Tajikistan37.741318673542004 72.53881931304931637.741122673542 72.538510813049314 37.741514673542007 72.539127813049319tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9034895871918830907.post-70854370164254727832012-09-30T17:21:00.000+06:002012-09-30T17:21:49.157+06:00Film Yagnob Trekking<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<iframe allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="mozallowfullscreen" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/50387341" webkitallowfullscreen="webkitallowfullscreen" width="500"></iframe> <a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=9034895871918830907" nbsp="nbsp" p="p"></a>Trekking in the Pamirs!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14277765227064469308noreply@blogger.com0Yagnob Valley, Tajikistan39.206718844918477 69.0463256835937539.009745844918477 68.730468683593756 39.403691844918477 69.362182683593744tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9034895871918830907.post-26057886870154284152012-08-28T21:47:00.000+06:002012-08-28T21:51:43.754+06:00Publication in Adventure Travel Magazine!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />Trekking in the Pamirs!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14277765227064469308noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9034895871918830907.post-32627438340492849082012-08-10T19:00:00.001+06:002012-08-10T19:00:56.294+06:00Bachor Mountain Lakes TrekAfter getting out of Khorog we hit the Pamir Highway to Bachor (3300m), a small mountain village 120km east of Khorog. This is the trailhead to many mountain adventures in the High Pamirs, including Yashilkul. The last 18km is, as understated by our driver, a bad road. It took two hours to reach the place. As there was enough time to do a bit of walking we set out to the east to stretch the legs and find a good camp spot which we did roughly 5km east at the confluence of Ghund and an unnamed side river (3425m).<br />
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Murky waters meet crystal clear Ghund River</span></div>
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We stayed on the trail leading to the beautiful mountain lake Yashilkul Kul, only into the left river valley just before the lake. The hot temperatures and thin air (and hauling everything ourselves...) made it a tough trekking day. Remco was not very well acclimatised yet and that took its toll. We decided to set up camp after 5 hours of walking, along the stream coming from the lake Chapdar at around 3600m. Plenty of dead wood and dried cow dung enabled us to make a good bon fire.</div>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;">A good whisky and roaring fire, what else do you need?</span></div>
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The easy path ascends gradually through the wide valley. Navigation is easy, the weather ever clear and temperatures mild in daytime and slightly chilly at night. The horse flies are an absolute pain, hasseling you from 9 to 5! The next camp we set at the valley looking towards where Chapdar would be. It was our first night above 4000m and getting to sleep proved to be difficult.</div>
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The route over the Langar Pass (4625m) is again easy. From our camp to the pass took us about three hours. A few hundred metres after the pass you´ll see a stunning translucent mountain lake which we first mistook for Chapdar. We used Marhus Hausers The Pamirs map which is scale 1:500.000. It is very easy to misjudge distances! We set up camp at the lake and I went for an excursion to Chapdar, 3km southwest of our camp. Next stop Uchkul, a 4 hour walk and again a stunning location to pitch the tent. The choi and the warm fresh naan at the shepherds family at the second lake was briliant (and very welcome after days of freezedried food and muesli breakfasts!).</div>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Good morning Uchkul!</span></div>
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From Uchkul a trail descends towards a shepherds camp at a river that flows down to Sarez Lake. Here I made a crucial mistake of assuming a route without even checking the map. Instead of crossing the river before the first small lake I kept going up. This resulted in lot's of doubts about the map and the route. When I realised I made a mistake we were far up this wrong valley (in fact almost back at Chapdar...). Remco was not impressed. It took another two hours to get back on route and find a suitable camp spot. It left us drained, both physically and mentally. Nevertheless, we pitched the tent at a marvelous mountain lake.</div>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Knackered after a unwanted D-tour</span></div>
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The 6th day went through stunning high alpine terrain. The path remained surprisingly, winding its way through big boulders and along steep drops. In terms of mountain lakes, this is probably one of the most beautiful routes in the world. Crystal clear waters surrounded by massive glaciated 5000m peaks. We passed Zarojkul after 3 hours of walking. Still a long way to go, we kept going (wanting to sleep below 4000m to catch a bit of sleep for a change). Our journey back south in the direction of Bachor was not as easy as it seemed. Again longer than expected because of the scale of our map and hopping many boulders with over 20kg on our backs took its toll. Remco tried to recover from a slip but instead did his back in badly. The journey down the next day was, despite the easy terrain, a true agonising experience for him. We decided to head back to Khorog to reconsider our plans. In Khorog plans were decided for us as it turned out... (see previous post)</div>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Zarojkul, 4500m</span></div>
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Shortly I will write a detailed description of this trek.</div>Trekking in the Pamirs!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14277765227064469308noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9034895871918830907.post-27101159903136115052012-08-10T16:07:00.000+06:002012-08-16T19:59:50.635+06:00Early exit from Badakhshan/PamirsThe 24th of July Remco and I hopped in a jeep bound for Khorog, the capital of the Pamir region. Apart from the usual delays at the check points, the trip seemed to run smoothly. Until news arrived that there was a 'situation' in Khorog, involving violence with casualties. Stories along the road made clear that extreme violence broke out in Khorog between the government military and a local group and that 40 deaths were reported.<br />
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Khorog civilians building road blocks</span></div>
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I couldn't believe it, Khorog is such a peaceful city, with all its hospitality and relaxed atmosphere. We planned the start of our Pamir crossing in Vanj, but without knowing exactly what was going on we decided to travel further and make a decision later what to do. Hindsight, we should have gotten off earlier. But we felt we had to get information before heading into a possible hazardous mountain territory. We ended up in a Khorog guesthouse, advised to stay in. Seeing groups of foreigners leaving the centre in the hope to catch a ride near the airport we decided to pack our bags and leave again. Only to return again a few hours later, spending the night in Khorog. Gun shots and heavy artilliry kept us awake and worried about the next day. Malte, a German fellow traveler, managed to arrange a car for the next day heading eastwards to a mountain village called Bachor. We managed to get there and did a fantastic 7 day trek in the area (see next post).<br />
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Returning to Khorog (virtually all traffic through the Pamirs passes Khorog) was again insecure. Still recovering from the high altitude trek we were woken up by the Tajik security service GKNB with the request to leave Badakhshan as soon as possible. Three hours later we took off from Khorog airport on our way to Dushanbe....<br />
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Leaving Khorog with mixed emotions...</span></div>
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The crossing of the Pamirs unfortunately never happened. But more important is that peace returns to the region.<br />
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For more background information and travel advice there's an excellent piece on Robert Middleton's website <a href="http://www.pamirs.org/RECENT-MILITARY-ACTION-IN-KHOROG-NEWS-UPDATE.pdf" target="_blank">pamirs.org</a>.Trekking in the Pamirs!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14277765227064469308noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9034895871918830907.post-28642134646126962732012-07-23T21:23:00.001+06:002012-07-23T21:23:52.684+06:00Boot Repair...Getting the boots through their last 20 days of mountains...<br />
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<div class="separator"style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZLBwm7LSN0lYX2KtvEC1A2JBTZ0KOzLb1YNvrXrYto0lbROyn0YBWopMacw5KxQGAcqHmzzorbRDA7Jsb7zi93izGVzd8BHFSZ65IGFewRjChVcLRZTmx8WRiF1RuN-h-8swcke2vQR62/s640/blogger-image--1859101257.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZLBwm7LSN0lYX2KtvEC1A2JBTZ0KOzLb1YNvrXrYto0lbROyn0YBWopMacw5KxQGAcqHmzzorbRDA7Jsb7zi93izGVzd8BHFSZ65IGFewRjChVcLRZTmx8WRiF1RuN-h-8swcke2vQR62/s640/blogger-image--1859101257.jpg" /></a></div>Trekking in the Pamirs!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14277765227064469308noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9034895871918830907.post-51604043640528280462012-07-22T16:48:00.000+06:002012-07-22T16:51:24.657+06:00Yagnob and Fan Mountains treks completed!The first two trekkings in the north of Tajikistan have been completed. We started deep in the Zerafshan Valley in a village called Langar. After a three day approach through rivers and over massive snow fields we went over the Tabaspin Pass (4040m). On the other side we entered the magical, almost mythical river valley of the Yagnob.<br />
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Although there is no permanent habitation in the Upper Yagnob we did encounter several goat herders with their herd of goats. In July there were still enormous snow bridges that allows trekkers to cross the Yagnob. Downstream daytime temperatures started rising (it ws HOT!), and the slopes become more and more bleak. At some point we decided to start at 5am and had a siesta around noon to avoid the heat. After spectacular passages like the gorge below, and some challenging passes we arrived in Magrebi Poyon after 8 days.<br />
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We hitched a ride to Anzob and arranged a taxi to Iskander Kul for about 400 TJK. Another (mad) ride took us to the trailhead for the second leg through the Fan Mountains.Very different landscape, much wetter (we had a little bit of rain, which was very welcome!) and trees. Steep ascends and sections of nice gradual incline brought us in two days to the Upper Akhbashir Valley, where the approach to the Akhbashir (also called Sarymat) Pass starts.<br />
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The approach to the 4160m high pass is long. It took us 6,5 of ploughing through wet soil and soft snow to get to the summit. But the view was absolutely worth it!<br />
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The descent was definitely top three most horrible descents in my trekking "career". Traversing steep scree most of the descent, slushy snow and aggressive shepherd dogs worn us completely out (1300m down on horendous terrain). No path whatsoever. I really wonder why the crossing of this pass is mentioned as an existing route. Not recommended unless you like the kind of terrain described earlier.<br />
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In September I will update this and the coming route on this site with proper descriptions and more photographs. Off to the Pamirs in two days!Trekking in the Pamirs!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14277765227064469308noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9034895871918830907.post-44225502983037041702012-07-04T02:57:00.001+06:002012-07-04T02:57:14.964+06:00Packing MayhemTomorrow I'm off! I'm flying Turkish Airlines and will meet up with my buddy Pete at the whisky shop at Istanbul Airport. Everything fits in the backpack, with 30kg allowance no worries about excess baggage. 40 degrees Celsius Dushanbe here we come!<div class="separator"style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Itw77fTeZ521fU0Cbj9nE5-gtBG9BKunGRWrdDMWwllv8LolZNAB_fl72MLVScGS0FX2sCGs5yjzM6SfxwoCcUfEiugNPXlcGals16hi9FvuNh1EGicospLmOLHnLpwE1C5y1oJTz3sD/s640/blogger-image-65853609.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Itw77fTeZ521fU0Cbj9nE5-gtBG9BKunGRWrdDMWwllv8LolZNAB_fl72MLVScGS0FX2sCGs5yjzM6SfxwoCcUfEiugNPXlcGals16hi9FvuNh1EGicospLmOLHnLpwE1C5y1oJTz3sD/s640/blogger-image-65853609.jpg" /></a></div>Trekking in the Pamirs!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14277765227064469308noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9034895871918830907.post-17555597176369621742012-06-24T23:25:00.000+06:002012-06-24T23:25:15.871+06:00Training sessionsThe past 1,5 month I have been able to get out for a few good walks in preparation of Tajikistan (I would have done them anyways!...)<div>
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The Overland Track, Tasmania</div>
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Dreadful conditions during a climb of the volcano at Kolombangara Island, Solomon Islands</div>
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The last walk in my local hills before heading out to Tajikistan in the Pentlands just outside Edinburgh, earlier today with Pete Wooding.</div>Trekking in the Pamirs!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14277765227064469308noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9034895871918830907.post-11090953191348679822012-06-22T15:11:00.000+06:002012-06-22T15:11:40.895+06:00Route maps Zerafshan and Pamir treks<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This is the intended route crossing the Zerafshan Range (Northern Tajikistan), starting east end finishing at the 7 lakes south of Penjikent.<br />
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After the Zerafshan we will be travelling to Vanj, the trailhead for the Pamir traverse. The trek finishes in the Tajik part of the Wakhan Corridor, at the border with Afghanistan.Trekking in the Pamirs!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14277765227064469308noreply@blogger.com0