This page will be updated regularly with new treks in the Pamir/Fann region. Trekking potentially involves risks. Although the author tries to make the information as accurate as possible, he cannot accept any responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience sustained by using the information on this website.
Wakhan Corridor
-Afghanistan-
Practical info
The best way to enter Afghanistan is via Tajikistan. From the capital Dushanbe arrange a jeep to Khorog (around 50 dollars, price changes all the time). In Khorog you can arrange an Afghan visa in one day. For another 10 dollars you can get a shared taxi to the border with Ishkashim. Easy border crossing, border guards on both sides are nice. The Afghan border police can even arrange a pick up for you since it is 5km from the actual Afghan town of Ishkashim (it is pricy, 25 dollars one way). My local contact was Waffialah, the local fixer. He speakes English and can get you a driver, arrange all the permits (4x) and a guide. A jeep with driver all the way to Sarhad-e-Broghil cost 450 dollars one way (!!). You could arrange permits yourself for a total of 10 dollars and have it arranged for 50 dollars. A guide is 25 dollars a day. You will need to provide his food as well. Try to arrange a guide up front since there are only four of them in the entire region. The yak is arranged in Sarhad (ask for Safdar). The journey to Sarhad could be done in one day but is usually done in two days. You can stay in one of the guesthouses half way (25 dollars per person per night). There are three guesthouses in Sarhad, take your pick. And there is a hot spring, very nice when you come back! From Sarhad you start the trek.
Important notes
1. the last place where you can buy food for camping is Ishkashim. Even better to get your supplies in Dushanbe (more choice).
2. Bring enough dollars, there are no cash machines...
3. I brought along an extra tent for the guide and yak man. That gave us more freedom to camp anywhere rather then having to go to a settlement.
4. Dress respectfully (no skin and women should cover up the hair)
Little Pamir Trek
Sarhad-e-Broghil (3260m)-Baharaq (3510m)
16.5km
7 hours
↑ 1200m
↓ 950m
East of the village of Sarhad-e-Broghil an easy, clear path winds up the 4215 metres high Dalriz Pass. This route is a short cut from the course of the Wakhan River. The actual pass is broad with stunning views ove the 6000m+ peaks of the Hindu Kush. Before and after the pass are several water points (both small streams and springs). Keep following the obvious path until it meets the wild Wakhan River again. There will be a number of streams to cross, all ok for wading through or hopping from boulder to boulder. Baharaq is situated at the first wider river bank, with trees and a small stone building. Water is taken from a spring. Excellent camping spot.
Note
How to get the animals started...
Donkey: jeggggg
Horse: Tsjo
Yak: Takstjo
Section 2
Baharaq (3510m) - Langar (3630m)
20km
7,5 hours
↑ 400 metres
↓ 280 metres
The path goes up up the hill rising from the river valley just after the stone building. 200 metres higher the path descends again to a bridge crossing a raging river. The track follows the river. Bare in mind that for the first three hours there is no drinking water, so fill up properly at the camp. After three hours there are several places to fill up the bottles. From here it is easy cruising with mostly flat track. There is one river wading. The beautiful tower of Gerek peak (5400m) is constantly visible. The camp spot is high above the river on a plateau. Despite the fact that Langar is on various maps it is not a permanent settlement. A few building and ruines offer shelter for caravans of yak and their herders that are passing by. There is a good water supply. Enjoy the great views of Gerek.
Section 3
Langar (3630m)-Khachigosh (4080m)
21km
6,5 hours
↑ 450 metres
↓ n/a
Approaching the Little Pamir Plateau
From Langar the valley widens. The mountains on the left (Pamir) are red and yellow, on the right enjoy the views over the peaky Hindu Kush covered in ice and snow. The route follows the Wakhan for an hour, then it makes a shortcut leaving the Wakhan River for a bit and staying left of the side river called Varm. A river crossing involves wading through the Varm river, potentially tricky in early summer. Keep on walking through the wide valley. The path will meet with the Wakhan River after a couple of hours. Just before reaching the plateau the path forks. Take the left route and enter the plateau and give permit to the ranger at Khachigosh. 20 minutes further eastwards to Chaqmaqtin is a good camp place on a meadow dotted with yaks.
Section 4
Khachigosh (4080m) - Chaqmaqtin Lake (4030m)
22km
Wading through icy rivers
The Little Pamir Plateau is a vast, windswept strip of land surrounded by majestic peaks of over 5000 metres. The deep blue Chaqmaqtin Lake forms the "eye". Around 2000 Kyrgyz live a hard life, surviving of their live stock and the scarse products that come in from lower altitudes. We were treated with a carpet of snow although it was the first week of September! Summers are very short.
The route to Chaqmaqtin Lake is fairly easy walking. Cross the wide stream after 1km and proceed walking on the plateau. Stay on the left side of the river (going up). Pretty much flat all the way but the route can be very muddy. After 1 hour you pass Bozai Gumbaz (the caravanserai and little after the settlement with CAI school). The big the valley on the right leads towards the Wakhjir Pass going into China. After 4 hours cross the river (wading) as the route is a lot easier to walk. From here you could stay on the foothill of the mountains leading to a small settlement with guesthouse Ouch Jilga (around $20 per person per night) and left towards Chaqmaqtin Lake. Both are roughly two hours walking from the crossing. Lots of wading birds, ducks and even sea gulls (despite the fact that the nearest sea is 2000km away!). This is possibly the most spectacular scenery in Central Asia! Near the shores of the lake are excellent camping spots.
Chaqmaqtin Lake (4030m)
Great things to do around the like is visiting one of the Kyrgyz settlements. Long strolls along the shores of Chaqmatin is another thing to do. And what about exploring one of the side valleys to see the hanging glaciers from up close!
The stunning mountains of the Hindu Kush
The trail continues further east all the way to China, another 5 days of walking!
Section 5
Chaqmaqtin Lake (4030m) - Khachigosh (4080m)
22km
Section 6
Kachigosh (4080m) - Showr (4300m)
15km
4 hours
Our yak reluctant to venture the snowy conditions
This is a short walking section. From the settlement there's a path going up the big U-shaped pass. Look behind you and enjoy the stunning view over the Little Pamir Plateau for the last time this trip. Keep left of the river. The path ascends gradually which makes it easy walking. Cross the river at around 4300m. The route crosses the Achbliss Pass (4600m) and a Scottish-like Loch marks the pass on your left. The descend is easy as well, with sheep and yaks accompanying your walk. Camp at the river at the yurt settlement.
Section 7
Showr (4300) - Barnoz (4400)
24km
Notes
Struggling up the 4880m high Varm Pass
From Showr go up the wide, bouldery river valley of Varm. The climb is gentle along the left bank and later on the river bed. After a few kilometres, where two rivers come together, take the left valley. After crossing the Varm you get to a path that leads clearly up to the Varm Pass (4880m). Early in the season but even in summer snow can be expected. The path is never steep or technical. After the pass (there's a small pond on top) the descend is easy as well. The mountains on the right form the border with Tajikistan. After 1,5 hours you see a wide river valley. Stay on the right side of the river and go up the second seasonal settlement to Barnoz which makes a good spot to spend the night.
Section 8
Barnoz (4400m) - Dara River (3985m)
14km
Crossing this river is not as easy for the yak...
From Barnoz traverse towards the end of the ridge on the right side of the river. After 1 hour there's a good path leading up the Karabil pass (4805m). Weather permitting there are great views over the Big Pamir. Sharp peaks are wrapped in snow year round. Down is the river Chapdara with glacial blue waters. The descend is straightforward. When the slope levels out traverse left towards the village of Witzirum. After the village continue for 45 min where the river is easy to cross over big boulders. Take the valley to the right (Dara River) after another 30 min cross a tributary river at the confluence and keep going along the Dara (there's a village on the other side). There is an obvious place to cross 20 min after having passed the village. Camp on the other side.
11km
3,5 hours
Our yak man Safdar warming up
Keep going up along the left bank of the Dara River. After about an hour there's quite a steep gorge to cross. Look carefully, there is a proper path, though steep. No major river crossings, all hoppable. Snowcapped peaks become visible. At around 4450m cross the stream and go up the hill on the right. You'll see a turqoise blue pond. Stay left of the river but pass the rocky outcrop on the right. Traverse this very same hill up until you reach the high altitude alpine lake which is an excellent base for exploring the spectacular area.
Section 10
Dara Bik (4600m) - Sarhad (3250m)
16,5km
5,5 hours
Dara Bik plateau
Up the Dara Bik Pass (4700m). You'll pass a fantastic alpine lake just before the pass. The terrain is rugged with white peaks all around. The way down is very rough at first but gets clear after 30 minutes. The views over the Hindu Kush are unreal. At 4200m there's a small summer shelter. Keep following the valley down (stay left of the river). At around 4000m cross the river (a little further down it's impossible to continue on the left side). At the valley's end the path goes up steeply, though very short distance. After this section Sarhad is visible, with views over the direct surroundings of Sarhad (The valley towards Broghil, which forms the border with Pakistan). 45 minutes to Sarhad winding right around the right side of the gorge. Enjoy the hotspring!
Fann Mountains
-Tajikistan-
Mura Pass Trek
Getting to the trailhead from Dushanbe
Not the easiest, but definitely the cheapest way is taking a mini bus or marshrutka. From the main bus station hop on the marshrutka bound for Shakharov (5 TJS), which is about 50 km west of Dushanbe. It will only leave when full and filling up could take a while. The journey takes an hour. From Shakharov a taxi can take you 15 km up the Karatag River to the end of the asphalt road (20 TJS). A dirt road only suitable for 4WD vehicles continues to Hakimi village.
Section 1
End of the tar road – Hakimi
15 km
5 hrs
↑ 460m
Notes
15 km
6 hrs
↑ 710m
↓ 150m
Notes
6.5 km
4 hrs
↑ 955m
Camp before Mura Pass at 3100 metres
Notes
21 km
10 hrs
↑ 700m
↓ 1310m
View on the other side of the Mura Pass
Notes
Accommodation
Home stays are found in Sary Tag and on the shores of Iskander Kul.
Supplies
Trekkers who plan to continue their trek into the Fann Mountains can restock at the Turbaza (former Soviet holiday park) at Iskander Kul.
Transport
There are no buses to Sarvoda, which serves as the main hub to Ayni/Penjikent and Dushanbe. You can hitch a ride or arrange a taxi from Iskander Kul at the Turbaza (US$25) to Sarvoda and continue the journey by bus or shared jeep. Prices need verification.
Move away from the main river to
cross the big side stream coming down from the impressive glaciers that tumble
down the Sarihadan (4679m). A bit upstream you can find stretches narrow enough
to hop over. Now go back in the direction of the main river (going over the
small tree covered hill left of the rocky outcrop). 1km further the river
splits: stay right and continue up until the stream is small enough to cross.
At the source of this stream you can camp on a beautiful pasture looking over the
magical Dukdon mountains.
Turn left and except for a
small section of climbing descend along the river for about an hour. When
you’re at the level of the big red rock mountain Kirk-Shaytan
The last sun rays of the day light up the Chimtarga summit
The approach to the Kaznok Pass (we were doing the route north bound, much more difficult!)
Along Kaznok River
Lakes Loop – Kulikalon / Alaudin Lakes
Distance: 54km
Total altitude difference: 3145 metres
Highest point: 3775 metres
Highest camp: 2850 metres
Getting to the trailhead from Penkjikent
Section 1
Artush Village (1770m) – Kulikalon Lake (2850m)
14km
4 hours
↑ 1080m
Kulikalon Lake
From Artush Village it takes two hours to walk (8km) up to the turn off to the Alplager (2150m). It is possible to hire a donkey. It is a lovely walk up along a dirt road. The Alplager offers accommodation, food and snacks.
To continue to Kulikalon Lake keep following the dirt road on the left side of the river. After 2km the road ends. A bridge connects with a path that winds up in a SE direction. On both sides big walls give some shade later in the day. Half way up the slope you’ll pass a waterfall on your left hand side. The last bit up to the lake is very steep. Once up you enter a big open space dotted with deep blue lakes surrounded by glaciated peaks reaching over 5000 metres. The smaller lakes are wonderful for swimming. Pitching your tent is easy, many spots all around the lakes. Several shepherd families live around the lakes in summer time.
Section 2
Kulikalon Lake (2850m) – Alaudin Lake (2780m) via Laudan Pass (3640m)
18km
7 hours
↑ 1070m
↓ 1140m
Camping at Alaudin Lake
Around Kulikalon there’s an extensive network of paths. The paths leading in easterly direction all come together on the mail trail towards the Laudan Pass (3640m). It is a bit swampy in places, but generally easy to walk. The pass is free of snow in trekking season. On top you are treated to stunning views over the lakes. The descent remains in north easterly direction. The path that’s bending right is a short cut to the Russian climbing camp, not far from Alaudin Lake. The way down along the river Pasruddaria River is long (about 1100 altimetres), but pretty straight forward (path goes down left of the river). At the junction with the Chapdara River there is a CBT homestay (more a mountain hut) that needs to be booked in advance (10 US$, Zerefshan Tourism Development Association in Penjikent) unless you’re lucky. At this junction turn right on the landrover track. Gradually this track goes up with awesome views of the big peaks of the Fann Mountains. 3,5km (1 hour) further the dirt track ends at a Russian climbing camp. After that it’s 45 minutes (1,5km) up to Alaudin Lake. All around are camp spots and local guide Rashid has a small selection of food and drinks and can also prepare warm meals.
Section 3
Alaudin Lake (2780m) – Artush Village (1770m) via Alaudin Pass (3775m)
22km
8 hours
↑ 995m
↓ 2005m
Donkeys struggling up Alaudin Pass
The Alaudin Pass is west from Alaudin lake. On both sides of the valley up a trail goes up very steeply. As you gain altitude views over Chopdara, Zamok and other 5000m+ peaks unfold. Having taken the left trail, after 400 altimetres up (a bouldery section) the path disappears. Follow the donkey tracks until you cross it again. Once the path is found again, it remains very straightforward. Also this pass is free of snow during the summer months. The path winding back down to Kulikalon Lake is at times steep. Left at around 3000 metres you’ll see the emerald Dushakha Lake. Cross the river that comes from Dushakha high before it is too steep. Going down the donkey tracks through barren landscape brings you back to Kulikalon Lake. Go back to Artush Alplager and Village as you came. Note that the first section of the descent from Kulikalon is steep and can be extremely slippery. Take care on this section!
Plunge into one of the beautiful lakes!
The trek could be prolonged by going back to the Alplager via the Chukurak Pass, an easy pass at 3180 metres.
Enjoy!
View of the Zamin Karor Massif
High Pamir
-Tajikistan-
The last hurdle: big moraines
The bridge, the gateway back to Bachor
Pik Engels Meadows Trek
Section 1
Langar – Plateau at base Pik Engels
13km
5 hours
↑ 1150m
From the Wakhan Valley nothing gives away the existence of one of the most beautiful peaks in the Pamirs, just half a days’ walk away: Pik Engels (6510m). In summer time the green pastures at the base of the peak are inhabited by Pamiri shepherds. From the suggested campsite it is possible to walk up to the base of the mountain which is guarded by a white wall of glaciers; and the mountain ridge leading to the shoulder of both Pik Karl Marx and Pik Engels offers the unique possibility of a relatively easy trek up a six thousand metre mountain.
Make sure you carry enough water for the first section of the trek: the steep trail is exposed to the sun virtually all day and there is no water until the trail meets up with the gorge. Finding the trailhead is tricky. Cross the bridge at the MSDSP office and follow the path that stays on the top end of the village. This will lead to the sign for the petro glyphs (N37˚03.295, E072˚40.566). Several (shepherd) trails wind their way up the dry and rocky slope. Avoid walking close to the slabs that dominate the left part of the slope. Herds of goats often cause rocks to roll down in great speed. All the trails lead upwards at varying gradients and meet with the man made trail along the irrigation channel, about six hundred altimetres above Langar. This section takes about 1.5-2hr.
Approach Pik Engels
On the horizon a dramatic landscape unfolds, dotted with the white spiky peaks of the Hindu Kush on the Afghan side of the Wakhan Corridor. The wide valley is split by the Panj River, the confluence of the Pamir River (in the old days known as the Oxus) and the Wakhan River. The views from this part of the trail are absolutely breathtaking. The most distinct mountain visible is the pyramid shaped Baba Tungi (6513m).
Continue the almost level trail towards the gorge while keeping Langar on your right hand side. The path turns left into the gorge. From here you’ll catch the first glimpse of Pik Engels. Keep walking along the irrigation channel for another 2km until you reach the little dam that partly diverts the glacial stream (3500m). The view, the space and the availability of water makes this an excellent place for a rest. From here it will take another 2hr to reach the Pik Engels Meadows. The path roughens a bit and sometimes you’ll have to find your own way along the river bank over boulders. It’s straightforward where to go: after the boulders a grassy plain leads to the well worn trail that zigzags up about hundred fifty altimetres. After this section the valley widens and levels out as you approach one of the most spectacular places you’ll ever camp.
Admiring Pik Engels
Side trip 1
Pik Engels from close up
From the campsite it is possible to walk up to the base of the mountain. This will take 4-6 hr return; the actual distance and gain in altitude is more than it appears to be. As you approach Pik Engels, stay on the left side of the pastures. You have to cross the glacial stream twice until you reach the moraine (20min); take care not to lose your footing as you cross the stream, and pick your crossing points carefully. You pass the glacial lake on the left hand side. The path fades, but finding your way is easy as the direction is very obvious. After one hour you will reach the tongue of the glacier, which at this stage is covered with soil and rocks. The terrain becomes rough and steep with big and sometimes unstable boulders. Again stay on the left side of the glacier. The climb up this moraine section (three hundred altimetres) will take about an hour. On the top at 4400m the view of the mighty Pik Engels is unforgettable. The return trip is the same way back with Baba Tungi dominating the horizon.
-Afghanistan-
The best way to enter Afghanistan is via Tajikistan. From the capital Dushanbe arrange a jeep to Khorog (around 50 dollars, price changes all the time). In Khorog you can arrange an Afghan visa in one day. For another 10 dollars you can get a shared taxi to the border with Ishkashim. Easy border crossing, border guards on both sides are nice. The Afghan border police can even arrange a pick up for you since it is 5km from the actual Afghan town of Ishkashim (it is pricy, 25 dollars one way). My local contact was Waffialah, the local fixer. He speakes English and can get you a driver, arrange all the permits (4x) and a guide. A jeep with driver all the way to Sarhad-e-Broghil cost 450 dollars one way (!!). You could arrange permits yourself for a total of 10 dollars and have it arranged for 50 dollars. A guide is 25 dollars a day. You will need to provide his food as well. Try to arrange a guide up front since there are only four of them in the entire region. The yak is arranged in Sarhad (ask for Safdar). The journey to Sarhad could be done in one day but is usually done in two days. You can stay in one of the guesthouses half way (25 dollars per person per night). There are three guesthouses in Sarhad, take your pick. And there is a hot spring, very nice when you come back! From Sarhad you start the trek.
Important notes
1. the last place where you can buy food for camping is Ishkashim. Even better to get your supplies in Dushanbe (more choice).
2. Bring enough dollars, there are no cash machines...
3. I brought along an extra tent for the guide and yak man. That gave us more freedom to camp anywhere rather then having to go to a settlement.
4. Dress respectfully (no skin and women should cover up the hair)
Little Pamir Trek
- Distance: 182km
- Total altitude difference: 4750 metres
- Highest point: 4880 metres
- Highest camp: 4600 metres
Sarhad-e-Broghil (3260m)-Baharaq (3510m)
16.5km
7 hours
↑ 1200m
↓ 950m
On top of the Dalriz Pass
East of the village of Sarhad-e-Broghil an easy, clear path winds up the 4215 metres high Dalriz Pass. This route is a short cut from the course of the Wakhan River. The actual pass is broad with stunning views ove the 6000m+ peaks of the Hindu Kush. Before and after the pass are several water points (both small streams and springs). Keep following the obvious path until it meets the wild Wakhan River again. There will be a number of streams to cross, all ok for wading through or hopping from boulder to boulder. Baharaq is situated at the first wider river bank, with trees and a small stone building. Water is taken from a spring. Excellent camping spot.
Note
How to get the animals started...
Donkey: jeggggg
Horse: Tsjo
Yak: Takstjo
Section 2
Baharaq (3510m) - Langar (3630m)
20km
7,5 hours
↑ 400 metres
↓ 280 metres
The easy way...
The path goes up up the hill rising from the river valley just after the stone building. 200 metres higher the path descends again to a bridge crossing a raging river. The track follows the river. Bare in mind that for the first three hours there is no drinking water, so fill up properly at the camp. After three hours there are several places to fill up the bottles. From here it is easy cruising with mostly flat track. There is one river wading. The beautiful tower of Gerek peak (5400m) is constantly visible. The camp spot is high above the river on a plateau. Despite the fact that Langar is on various maps it is not a permanent settlement. A few building and ruines offer shelter for caravans of yak and their herders that are passing by. There is a good water supply. Enjoy the great views of Gerek.
Section 3
Langar (3630m)-Khachigosh (4080m)
21km
6,5 hours
↑ 450 metres
↓ n/a
Approaching the Little Pamir Plateau
From Langar the valley widens. The mountains on the left (Pamir) are red and yellow, on the right enjoy the views over the peaky Hindu Kush covered in ice and snow. The route follows the Wakhan for an hour, then it makes a shortcut leaving the Wakhan River for a bit and staying left of the side river called Varm. A river crossing involves wading through the Varm river, potentially tricky in early summer. Keep on walking through the wide valley. The path will meet with the Wakhan River after a couple of hours. Just before reaching the plateau the path forks. Take the left route and enter the plateau and give permit to the ranger at Khachigosh. 20 minutes further eastwards to Chaqmaqtin is a good camp place on a meadow dotted with yaks.
Section 4
Khachigosh (4080m) - Chaqmaqtin Lake (4030m)
22km
6 hours
↑ and ↓ 100 metres
Note
- 3 river crossings involving wading
Wading through icy rivers
The Little Pamir Plateau is a vast, windswept strip of land surrounded by majestic peaks of over 5000 metres. The deep blue Chaqmaqtin Lake forms the "eye". Around 2000 Kyrgyz live a hard life, surviving of their live stock and the scarse products that come in from lower altitudes. We were treated with a carpet of snow although it was the first week of September! Summers are very short.
The route to Chaqmaqtin Lake is fairly easy walking. Cross the wide stream after 1km and proceed walking on the plateau. Stay on the left side of the river (going up). Pretty much flat all the way but the route can be very muddy. After 1 hour you pass Bozai Gumbaz (the caravanserai and little after the settlement with CAI school). The big the valley on the right leads towards the Wakhjir Pass going into China. After 4 hours cross the river (wading) as the route is a lot easier to walk. From here you could stay on the foothill of the mountains leading to a small settlement with guesthouse Ouch Jilga (around $20 per person per night) and left towards Chaqmaqtin Lake. Both are roughly two hours walking from the crossing. Lots of wading birds, ducks and even sea gulls (despite the fact that the nearest sea is 2000km away!). This is possibly the most spectacular scenery in Central Asia! Near the shores of the lake are excellent camping spots.
Chaqmaqtin Lake (4030m)
Great things to do around the like is visiting one of the Kyrgyz settlements. Long strolls along the shores of Chaqmatin is another thing to do. And what about exploring one of the side valleys to see the hanging glaciers from up close!
The stunning mountains of the Hindu Kush
The trail continues further east all the way to China, another 5 days of walking!
Section 5
Chaqmaqtin Lake (4030m) - Khachigosh (4080m)
22km
5 hours
Same as the way in. Lunch at Bozai Gumbaz (winter settlement for a number of Kyrgyz families).Section 6
Kachigosh (4080m) - Showr (4300m)
15km
4 hours
↑ 600 metres
↓ 200 metres
Our yak reluctant to venture the snowy conditions
This is a short walking section. From the settlement there's a path going up the big U-shaped pass. Look behind you and enjoy the stunning view over the Little Pamir Plateau for the last time this trip. Keep left of the river. The path ascends gradually which makes it easy walking. Cross the river at around 4300m. The route crosses the Achbliss Pass (4600m) and a Scottish-like Loch marks the pass on your left. The descend is easy as well, with sheep and yaks accompanying your walk. Camp at the river at the yurt settlement.
Section 7
Showr (4300) - Barnoz (4400)
24km
8 hours
↑ 680 metres
↓ 580 metresNotes
- High snowy pass
Struggling up the 4880m high Varm Pass
From Showr go up the wide, bouldery river valley of Varm. The climb is gentle along the left bank and later on the river bed. After a few kilometres, where two rivers come together, take the left valley. After crossing the Varm you get to a path that leads clearly up to the Varm Pass (4880m). Early in the season but even in summer snow can be expected. The path is never steep or technical. After the pass (there's a small pond on top) the descend is easy as well. The mountains on the right form the border with Tajikistan. After 1,5 hours you see a wide river valley. Stay on the right side of the river and go up the second seasonal settlement to Barnoz which makes a good spot to spend the night.
Section 8
Barnoz (4400m) - Dara River (3985m)
14km
5.5 hours
↑ 500 metres
↓ 900 metres
From Barnoz traverse towards the end of the ridge on the right side of the river. After 1 hour there's a good path leading up the Karabil pass (4805m). Weather permitting there are great views over the Big Pamir. Sharp peaks are wrapped in snow year round. Down is the river Chapdara with glacial blue waters. The descend is straightforward. When the slope levels out traverse left towards the village of Witzirum. After the village continue for 45 min where the river is easy to cross over big boulders. Take the valley to the right (Dara River) after another 30 min cross a tributary river at the confluence and keep going along the Dara (there's a village on the other side). There is an obvious place to cross 20 min after having passed the village. Camp on the other side.
Section 9
Dara River bank (3985m) - Dara Bik (4600m)11km
3,5 hours
↑ 600 metres
Our yak man Safdar warming up
Keep going up along the left bank of the Dara River. After about an hour there's quite a steep gorge to cross. Look carefully, there is a proper path, though steep. No major river crossings, all hoppable. Snowcapped peaks become visible. At around 4450m cross the stream and go up the hill on the right. You'll see a turqoise blue pond. Stay left of the river but pass the rocky outcrop on the right. Traverse this very same hill up until you reach the high altitude alpine lake which is an excellent base for exploring the spectacular area.
Section 10
Dara Bik (4600m) - Sarhad (3250m)
16,5km
5,5 hours
↑ 250 metres
↓1650 metres
Dara Bik plateau
Up the Dara Bik Pass (4700m). You'll pass a fantastic alpine lake just before the pass. The terrain is rugged with white peaks all around. The way down is very rough at first but gets clear after 30 minutes. The views over the Hindu Kush are unreal. At 4200m there's a small summer shelter. Keep following the valley down (stay left of the river). At around 4000m cross the river (a little further down it's impossible to continue on the left side). At the valley's end the path goes up steeply, though very short distance. After this section Sarhad is visible, with views over the direct surroundings of Sarhad (The valley towards Broghil, which forms the border with Pakistan). 45 minutes to Sarhad winding right around the right side of the gorge. Enjoy the hotspring!
-Tajikistan-
Mura Pass Trek
Getting to the trailhead from Dushanbe
Not the easiest, but definitely the cheapest way is taking a mini bus or marshrutka. From the main bus station hop on the marshrutka bound for Shakharov (5 TJS), which is about 50 km west of Dushanbe. It will only leave when full and filling up could take a while. The journey takes an hour. From Shakharov a taxi can take you 15 km up the Karatag River to the end of the asphalt road (20 TJS). A dirt road only suitable for 4WD vehicles continues to Hakimi village.
- Distance: 58km
- Total altitude up: 2825m
- Total altitude down: 1460m
- Highest point: 3780m
- Highest camp: 3100m
Section 1
End of the tar road – Hakimi
15 km
5 hrs
↑ 460m
Notes
- Lack of water points
- Heat
Section 2
Hakimi – Khojohasan15 km
6 hrs
↑ 710m
↓ 150m
Karatag River
Notes
- Tricky trail sections
- Military border post
Section 3
Khojohasan – Foot of Mura Pass6.5 km
4 hrs
↑ 955m
Notes
- Shepherd dogs
- Snow traverse(s)
Section 4
Foot of Mura Pass – Mura Pass – Sarytag21 km
10 hrs
↑ 700m
↓ 1310m
View on the other side of the Mura Pass
Notes
- Steep snow fields
- Deep river crossings
Accommodation
Home stays are found in Sary Tag and on the shores of Iskander Kul.
Supplies
Trekkers who plan to continue their trek into the Fann Mountains can restock at the Turbaza (former Soviet holiday park) at Iskander Kul.
Transport
There are no buses to Sarvoda, which serves as the main hub to Ayni/Penjikent and Dushanbe. You can hitch a ride or arrange a taxi from Iskander Kul at the Turbaza (US$25) to Sarvoda and continue the journey by bus or shared jeep. Prices need verification.
Dukdon Pass Trek
• Distance: 68km
• Total altitude up: 3920m
• Total altitude down: 3300m
• Highest point: 3810m
• Highest camp: 3010m
Getting to the trailhead
from Penjikent
The easiest approach to this part of the Fann
Mountains is from the city Penjikent, close to the border with Uzbekistan. From
here you can arrange a jeep to the Artush Alplager (big Swiss style mountain
hut with trails starting from here). This can be done with the Zerafshan
Tourism Development Organisation (ZTDA). Or get public mini bus nr.1 to the bus
station. Daily three buses are leaving for Artush Village from the bus station
on Rudaki (8.30, 13.00 and 14.00) and takes 2.5 to 4 hours depending on the
cargo it picks up on the way up.
Section 1
Artush Village (1770m) – Chukurak
Lake (2430m)
10km
3 hrs
↑ 660m
From Artush Village it takes two hours to walk
(8km) up to the turn off to the Alplager (2150m). It is possible to hire a
donkey. It is a lovely walk up along a dirt road. The huge Swiss style Alplager
offers accommodation, food and snacks.
A skinny path passes the Alplager on the left
side and zigzags steeply up through the juniper forest. It’ll take about an
hour to reach the amazing Chukurak Lake, where there are plenty of good spots
to pitch your tent.
Chukurak Lake enroute to Zurmech Pass
Section 2
Chukurak Lake (2430m) -
Archmaiden/Sarymat Confluence (1870m) via Zurmech Pass (3250m)
23km
8 hrs
↑ 1160m
↓ 1720m
Notes
Difficult route finding
This is a long day with steep
sections. The first part of the route up to the pass may not be the “normal”
route and needs verification with local guides! At the southwest end of
Chukurak several tracks go up the true left of the stream (the right side when
you go up). And this is the hard part. It’s a maze of donkey tracks cutting
through thick vegetation on a steep slope. It will take almost an hour to reach
the point where you cross the stream at 2680m. The path cuts back in the
direction of Chukurak, still ascending through the juniper forest. The route
goes right around and up the craggy section on your right. At a small flat
grassy patch just above the tree line aim for the gap between two rocks. From
here you can see the pass (west). A path traverses the grassy slopes and a big
scree section. After this you will have to climb the last 200 altimetres to the
top of the 3250m Zurmech pass.
The descent on the other
side is steep. Zigzag down and fill up your bottles just above the village, as
there aren’t many good water points. Pass the village at around 2900m. The
route is logical as both sides are rock faces. After a gorge like passage, the
valley is more cultivated. Cross the river where it divides at around 1750m.
Keep descending on the true left bank to the end of this valley, turn left and
cross the bridge 200m further.
From here it’s a long but
steady climb on a (4WD) dirt track for 10km. Stay along the
Archmaiden River that you
will cross (bridges!) a few times. You pass impressive gorges. It still is
quite a developed area, so not ideal for camping. The camp side is just passed
the confluence of Archmaiden and the Sarymat Rivers next to the small building.
The bridge is a few hundred metres upstream of Sarymat (the first one was
collapsed at the time of research).
Section 3
Archmaiden/Sarymat
Confluence (1870m) – Foot of Dukdon Pass (3010m)
17km
6 hrs
↑ 1250m
↓ 110m
View from the Zurmech Pass towards the Archmaiden Valley
This is where the dirt track narrows
and enters a gorge. It goes up and down, but the path is clear and the walk is
great. You will cross the river three times staying close to the Archmaiden
River. After the third bridge the valley widens and the jagged peaks of the
Dukdon Range become visible. You will pass a small settlement with on the
opposite side a stream coming down, (you are going up on the left side now!).
300m after another stream on the other side cross the bridge. Here a dusty path
ascends steeply through a juniper forest. It levels out again at a broad part
of this valley with a summer settlement.
Locals having fun
Section 4
Foot of Dukdon Pass (3010m)
– Sarytag (2390m) via Dukdon Pass (3810m)
18km
6 hrs
↑ 850m
↓ 1470m
Camp spot with Dukdon Pass in the distance!
The approach to the Dukdon
Pass is pretty straightforward. Climb up the left flank of the valley on a
clearly visible path. The terrain becomes barren with massive glaciers looming
on the other side. At around 3400m you’ll start crossing some snowfields. The
last few hundred metres up the pass will be entirely on snow.
The descend is on the left
side of the valley as you go down. This way you avoid the rough rocky terrain
in the middle. Once you’re at the level of the milky glacial lake go down and
meet with the path that leads to a stunning pasture with wild alpine flowers at
3400m. This is a good spot to take a break. The path follows the true left bank
of the river. At around 2900m at the big rocky outcrop you have to wade the
river and 100m down again to bypass this obstacle. From here the valley plunges
down 400m to the Karakul River at 2530m. Loose rocks make walking very
difficult, take your time!
On the Dukdon Pass!! (3810m)
(3904m) that rises up
vertically on the other side of the main river, find the bridge to cross. A 4WD
dirt track takes you to Sarytag 20 minutes down the road.
From Sarytag hitch a ride or
get a taxi to the main transport hub Savoda. Bare in mind there isn’t much
traffic here. You could stay in one of the homestays as well.
Kaznok Pass Trek
• Distance: 30km
• Total altitude up: 1640m
• Total altitude down: 1850m
• Highest point: 4040m
• Highest camp: 3510m
Getting to the
trailhead from Sarvoda
From the transport hub at Sarvoda there are two
ways to get to the Russian Climbing Camp, which is the trailhead. The first is
a 23km walk on a dirt track along small villages, following the Pasruddaria
River and Chapdara River higher up. The walk is straightforward but very long
and hot. The second option is to arrange a car at the transport hub (1 hour).
Section 1
Russian Climbing Camp
(2600m) – Mutnyi Lake (3510m)
8km
4 hrs
↑ 910m
From the Russian Climbing Camp
follow the main river up (1hr-3km) to Alaudin Lake (2780m). As this one of the
most beautiful mountain lakes in Tajikistan it is definitely worth camping one
night here. And of course it is good for acclimatising. From the lake a good
path continues up through a juniper forest. When the trees fade away the path
stays on the right side (west). After passing the small pond the path steepens
and zigzags up to the Mutnyi Lake at 3510m. Here you’re surrounded by dazzling,
towering 5000m+ peaks like Chimtarga and Chapdara. The best camp spots are on
the north end of the lake.
Section 2
Mutnyi Lake (3510m) – Upper
Kaznok River (3040m) via Kaznok Pass (4040m)
8km
5 hrs
↑ 530m
↓ 1000m
Notes
The Kaznok Pass is snow
bound year round and very steep. Crampons and walking axe recommended!
This is a very strenuous
section with a steep climb on snow (with icy patches!) and a steep descent. From
the north end of the lake, head east to find the track through the scree
heading straight south. You will keep the craggy mountain on your left. At the
“junction” heading with tracks going up different passes, you take the right
track up the Kaznok Pass. Shepherds take this pass as well, so once the
snowfield begins you can follow the goat turds all the way up. Again, axe and
crampons are recommended as this is steep, alpine terrain.
The descent goes down the gully
in south south-westerly direction. The slope is hard with loose stones so very
slippery. In the more shady parts of the gully patches snow remain which makes
the descent a bit easier. Down at the river that bares the name Kaznok turn
left. A good path leads you to a good spot to set up camp next to a small
building on a beautiful grassy meadow (2.5km).
Section 3
Upper Kaznok River (3040m)
– Sarytag (2390m)
14km
4 hrs
↑ 200m
↓ 850m
This is a relatively easy
day. Stay on the true left of the river and enjoy a great day through a
gorgeous valley. After about an hour the path goes up to bypass a deep gorge.
Cross a small river that comes down the valley from the east. After this
section the path cuts back to the river where it stays all the way to end of
the valley. You will pass lush patches of forest and cross the at times raging
river via wonky, wooden bridges. You will be on the true right side of the river
(that is now called Arkh) when you reach the confluence with the Sarytag River.
Cross the modern bridge and another bridge after one kilometre entering the
village of Sarytag.
Lakes Loop – Kulikalon / Alaudin Lakes
Distance: 54km
Total altitude difference: 3145 metres
Highest point: 3775 metres
Highest camp: 2850 metres
Getting to the trailhead from Penkjikent
The easiest approach to this part of the Fann Mountains is from the city Penjikent, close to the border with Uzbekistan. From here you can arrange a jeep to the Artush Alplager (big Swiss style mountain hut with trails starting from here). This can be done with the Zerafshan Tourism Development Organisation (ZTDA). Or get public mini bus nr.1 to the bus station. Daily three buses are leaving for Artush Village from the bus station on Rudaki (8.30, 13.00 and 14.00) and takes 2.5 to 4 hours depending on the cargo it picks up on the way up.
Section 1
Artush Village (1770m) – Kulikalon Lake (2850m)
14km
4 hours
↑ 1080m
From Artush Village it takes two hours to walk (8km) up to the turn off to the Alplager (2150m). It is possible to hire a donkey. It is a lovely walk up along a dirt road. The Alplager offers accommodation, food and snacks.
To continue to Kulikalon Lake keep following the dirt road on the left side of the river. After 2km the road ends. A bridge connects with a path that winds up in a SE direction. On both sides big walls give some shade later in the day. Half way up the slope you’ll pass a waterfall on your left hand side. The last bit up to the lake is very steep. Once up you enter a big open space dotted with deep blue lakes surrounded by glaciated peaks reaching over 5000 metres. The smaller lakes are wonderful for swimming. Pitching your tent is easy, many spots all around the lakes. Several shepherd families live around the lakes in summer time.
Section 2
Kulikalon Lake (2850m) – Alaudin Lake (2780m) via Laudan Pass (3640m)
18km
7 hours
↑ 1070m
↓ 1140m
Around Kulikalon there’s an extensive network of paths. The paths leading in easterly direction all come together on the mail trail towards the Laudan Pass (3640m). It is a bit swampy in places, but generally easy to walk. The pass is free of snow in trekking season. On top you are treated to stunning views over the lakes. The descent remains in north easterly direction. The path that’s bending right is a short cut to the Russian climbing camp, not far from Alaudin Lake. The way down along the river Pasruddaria River is long (about 1100 altimetres), but pretty straight forward (path goes down left of the river). At the junction with the Chapdara River there is a CBT homestay (more a mountain hut) that needs to be booked in advance (10 US$, Zerefshan Tourism Development Association in Penjikent) unless you’re lucky. At this junction turn right on the landrover track. Gradually this track goes up with awesome views of the big peaks of the Fann Mountains. 3,5km (1 hour) further the dirt track ends at a Russian climbing camp. After that it’s 45 minutes (1,5km) up to Alaudin Lake. All around are camp spots and local guide Rashid has a small selection of food and drinks and can also prepare warm meals.
Section 3
Alaudin Lake (2780m) – Artush Village (1770m) via Alaudin Pass (3775m)
22km
8 hours
↑ 995m
↓ 2005m
The Alaudin Pass is west from Alaudin lake. On both sides of the valley up a trail goes up very steeply. As you gain altitude views over Chopdara, Zamok and other 5000m+ peaks unfold. Having taken the left trail, after 400 altimetres up (a bouldery section) the path disappears. Follow the donkey tracks until you cross it again. Once the path is found again, it remains very straightforward. Also this pass is free of snow during the summer months. The path winding back down to Kulikalon Lake is at times steep. Left at around 3000 metres you’ll see the emerald Dushakha Lake. Cross the river that comes from Dushakha high before it is too steep. Going down the donkey tracks through barren landscape brings you back to Kulikalon Lake. Go back to Artush Alplager and Village as you came. Note that the first section of the descent from Kulikalon is steep and can be extremely slippery. Take care on this section!
The trek could be prolonged by going back to the Alplager via the Chukurak Pass, an easy pass at 3180 metres.
Enjoy!
Zerafshan Range
-Tajikistan-
Yagnob Valley Trek
• Distance: 111km
• Total altitude difference: 5500m
• Highest point: 4040m
• Highest camp: 3010m
Getting to the trailhead
from Dushanbe
From the centre of town
(Rudaki) go to the Cement Factory or in Russian Zement Tzavot. Take bus nr. 3 (1TJS) or a taxi (20TJS). From here
shared taxis head to the north of Tajikistan on surfaced road, except in the
Anzob Tunnel… The first leg is a two to three hour drive (depending on the car)
to a transport hub called Sarvoda. This will cost around 50TJS per person. Take
a taxi onwards to Ayni for 15TJS. In Ayni you will need to arrange a 4WD
vehicle to a small place called Langar in the Zerafshan Valley (four hours, 110km).
As the road is bad, it is expensive. I paid 1000TJS, but it’s better to arrange
it through the Zerafshan Tourist Board as they are well connected: info@zerafshan.info. In Langar you can stay in the CBT homestay.
Acclimatisation
walk
From the eastern end of Langar village (2150m) a
trail heads up on the left just after crossing the side river. There’s a
spectacular waterfall two minutes upstream. This is the river valley you’ll
follow into the Turkestan Range; the path winds back and takes you to a ledge
150m above the river and gradually ascents to the point where it meets the
river again. The higher you go, the better the views. Note that the weather can
change quickly in the afternoon.
Section 1
Langar (2150m) - Mine Camp
(2700m)
17km
7 hrs
↑ 810m
↓ 260m
Notes
- Hot!
1st day and what an approach!
Starting at the homestay
walk in westerly direction (Ayni). Cross the side river at the west end of the
village. After 100m get off the main road and follow a minor dirt track down
towards the Zerafshan River. Cross the big steel bridge. The road winds up
again (at some point you can make a short cut up) and leads to the entrance of
the Tabaspin Gorge. In the distance you see a line you may think it’s the path.
This is unfortunately an irrigation channel. The wide path dips down to the
river and crosses it several times. The landscape opens after about three to
four hours of walking and the mighty Pik Samarkand (5086m) becomes clearly
visible. The riverbanks are more welcoming now to fill up the bottles and have
lunch. Another three to four hours of easy walking with magnificent views of the summit ridge of the Zerafshan Range
takes you to the mine camp at 2700m. Chinese workers live here and go up one of
the mountain to mine gold (barely visible from this valley). A Tajik interpreter
who speaks English is usually in the camp. They’re all friendly folk. There is
a secluded camp spot on the riverbank. If you want to have the campsite to
yourself 2km before the mine camp there’s a shepherds camp with a side stream.
Good water supply.
Section 2
Mine Camp (2700m) – Foot of
Tabaspin Pass (3010m)
6km
3 hrs
↑ 430m
↓ 120m
Notes
- Potentially tricky river crossing
Campfire and a single malt whisky, life is sweet
Continue on the dirt track
that initially goes up but will drop down again and leads to a bridge. Cross
the bridge (there’s a spring 30m after the bridge on the left to fill the water
bottles!) and keep on walking until you enter a shepherd’s summer settlement. From
here move away from the dirt track and walk in southerly direction of the side
stream (just 100m). There’s a small bridge. After this a vague path continues
towards the massive glaciated mountain massive. Where the dirt track and the
path meet again there may be a snowbridge (2nd week of July 2012
there was a massive one). Cross it and head uphill through the juniper dotted
meadow. On your left a big boulder is visible on the other side of the river.
Once you’re on the same level there is a river to cross that feeds from one of
the glaciers. This could be difficult in early season or after heavy rains.
Within 5 minutes walking you’ll be rewarded with pitching your tent in the best
spot around (2980m). The other side of the main river is very rocky and
sloping.
This amphitheatre of
mountains is an excellent spot for exploring. Staying an extra night is
recommended, also for extra acclimatisation.
Section 3
Foot Tabaspin Pass (3010m) –
Upper Yagnob (2860m) via Tabaspin Pass (4040m)
10km
9 hrs
↑ 1030m
↓ 1180m
Notes
- Not many water sources
- Big snowfield (no crampons needed)
- Tabaspin Pass 4040m!
The Tabaspin Pass within reach
It’s recommended to start as
early as possible because of worsening snow conditions as the day progresses. This
is one of the toughest sections on this trek. From the camp spot walk up the scree
slope where a few small streams need to be crossed. There isn’t a proper path
so just choose a logical line up the obvious moraine just on the true left of
the river. Descent on the other side towards the large snowbridge to cross this
river. On the left you will see a clear path winding its way up on the green
slopes. You should traverse, hit this trail and follow the path. At around
3500m you’ll pass a shepherd’s camp (about two hours from the campsite). Once
you’re on top of another moraine you realise the pass is still pretty far, not
even visible from this point. Enter the enormous snowfield that gradually goes
all the way to the top of the pass. In the afternoon the snow gets very soft
and makes walking tough. Herds of goats left a trail of poo, all along, just
retrace this. It’ll take three to four hours to reach the 4040m Tabaspin Pass,
depending how well you’re acclimatised. Enjoy amazing views from the top with
beautiful alpine peaks filling the entire horizon! Often hunting peregrine
falcons can be spotted on the pass.
Unfortunately the real pass
that enables you to go down again is 40m up on the right hand side (as you’re
facing the Yagnob Valley). The descent is steep with lots of loose rocks,
though not difficult to identify. In wet conditions this path will be plainly
dangerous, so take care! Two hours later (without breaks) of knee wrecking
descending follow the Yagnob downstream for another 45 minutes until you reach
a shepherd’s camp at 2860m. This is a great spot to pitch your tent with a good
water supply and awesome views. And meet your new friends: marmots!
Section 4
Upper Yagnob (2860m) - Wading
Spot (2780m)
11km
3.5 hrs
↑ 210m
↓ 290m
Notes
- Eroded/damaged path
Crossing one of the side rivers
The donkey trail stays close
to the Yagnob River. Although there are several trails, at this stage you can
choose any of these as they meet again at some point. Generally the walking is
easy going through the green river valley with beautiful alpine flowers and
whistling marmots. Just be aware that some sections are heavily eroded. It’s
better to find an alternative, as the drop down can be quite big. Plenty of
side streams give you enough opportunity to refill the water bottles. Even deep
in July there are still a lot of (collapsed) snowbridges along the Yagnob. One
of the rivers needs to be waded, as it is too wide to jump (after around 2.5
hours). One hour later you’ll reach a very wide section of the Yagnob River.
Here the route splits into a Low and High Route. The Low Route involves wading
through the Yagnob. This is only possible when the water level is low enough.
Take care! If you’re not sure, set up camp and wait until early morning next
day when water levels are the lowest. For those doing the high route, there’s a
great camp spot higher up, see section 5.
Section 5
Direct Route: Wading Spot
(2780m) – Kalontemir River (2670m) via true left of Yagnob
7km
3 hrs
↑ 250m
↓ 360m
Notes
- Crossing Yagnob River
Overview of the Direct Route with left the Yagnob crossing
I haven’t done this route
myself, but from the High Route I could see the entire route. Both routes
bypass a gorge section of the river. Start as early as possible with crossing
the Yagnob as water levels are at its lowest in the morning (the Yagnob mainly
feeds from melting water). In any case take good care.
An obvious wide track goes
up gradually to overcome the gorge and drops down to river level again. The
last stretch of this section stays close to the riverbank. In some places the
path may be damaged by erosion, which means you have to find your own way
around.
High Route: Wading Spot
(2780m) - Kalontemir River (2670m) via true right of Yagnob
9.5km
5 hrs
↑ 380m
↓ 490m
Notes
- Difficult finding right path
Crossing snowbridge, High Route
The High Route is hard.
Staying on the right path is difficult at times, as there is are many different
donkey trails. They go in all directions and some are dead end (leading to a
good pasture or shepherd’s camp). You will have to cut back to the trail
regularly. Just use common sense. Nevertheless this route is absolutely
breathtaking.
The first part of route
climbs 250m to a beautiful flat spot with big boulders and juniper trees. With
water nearby this makes a fantastic camp spot. Stay on the same contour line by
following the donkey trails. This is not easy! Along the way you will cross a
snowbridge and some streams. Big snowy peaks with tumbling glaciers can be seen
on both sides of the Yagnob Valley. Roughly three hours from the Wading Spot
you’ll pass a small shepherd’s campsite. Stay high to avoid too much climbing
and descending. When the valley opens up a little try to identify the disused
irrigation channel. This leads to an abandoned village, which is in ruins now.
Descent to the Yagnob River where you will see the bridge. Cross it, turn right
and find a camp spot on the flat banks of the side river Kalontemir at 2670m.
Section 6
Kalontemir River (2670m) -
Khumar River (2600m)
14km
5 hrs
↑ 390m
↓ 460m
Notes
- Small rock fall prone section
- Not many water sources
Chilling out at a fab campsite
Cross the Kalontemir River
(wading) and follow the obvious path staying close to the Yagnob. The path
evolves into a wide dirt track. At some point it’ll move away from the river. The
higher you get the better the views. The landscape is like the European Alps,
but without the crowds and infrastructure. The main orientation point is the
big cone shaped hill with a “crown” that you’ll pass on the left side. The
track climbs slowly to the Maydon Pass (2960m). Just before this you’ll pass a
steep slope littered with big boulders. Rainy conditions could trigger rock
fall here (for about 500 metres). Also after the pass the walking remains
pretty easy. The track snakes down and eventually cuts back in the direction of
the Yagnob Valley. Camp at the brilliant flat and grassy riverbank of the
Khumar.
Section 7
Khumar River (2600m) – Mushtif
River (2420m)
18km
8 hrs
↑ 430m
↓ 610m
Notes
- Hot!
- Potentially difficult river crossing
Looking back at a fantastic gorge
Start early to avoid the
hottest part of the day. Walk downstream for about ten minutes where the Khumar
meets the Uchkado River (having passed the first confluence with Temurkan
River). Here the river is wide and just shallow enough to wade through. Do this
in the early morning, as the water was already higher than the knees! Continue
walking on the true left of the river passing a small but beautiful gorge. The
path is going up and down, making the walk quite tough. After the abandoned
ruined settlement the first sign of real habitation becomes visible! This is
the mud brick village of Dehbaland.
The path keeps descending
passing another village. This lower part of the Yagnob Valley is much hotter
and dryer than upstream. Opposite of the river massive walls rise vertically
400 metres up. Once you’re level with the Yagnob, it won’t be long before you
meet with the side river Tagobikul. Good lunch spot with some shade. Cross the
wonky bridge and enter the truly spectacular gorge with huge cliffs on both
sides. Cross the Yagnob and pass the small house. Fill up the bottles again at
the spring that bubbles up from the wall. It’s only 500 metres long, but one of
the highlights of this trek! Not far after cross the river again (you’re back
on the true left bank again), where a big bulldozer is permanently parked. 1km
further down, at a military post, is the end of the 4WD road coming from Anzob
and the M34. You’re still higher up on a small path; later it meets with this
dirt track that drops down to the mouth of the Mushtif River where you can set
up camp. Note that the map published by the ZTDA is incorrect on the position
of the Mushtif. It is one valley more to the east (a small bridge crosses it
and there is a small building too).
Section 8
Mushtif (2420m) - Vostochniy
Pass View (2860m) via unnamed pass (3590m)
8km
6 hrs
↑ 1150m
↓ 690m
Notes
- Very hard to find path to the pass
- Feisty shepherd dogs
- Steep and slippery descent
This is a very hard day.
After crossing the Mushtif, there will be a dirt track going up to a village
100 metres further. We discovered (hindsight) that we should have asked for
somebody to guide us in the right direction. We went on a clear path through
the fields that eventually faded away quickly. After scaling steep terrain and
walking cross-country walking we managed to get up the pass, but a few F-words
were expressed. We saw the path from the pass, which was much closer to the
mountainside. Ignore the irrigation channels that wrap around the hill. Again,
better to get a guide to lead you through the maze of tracks.
The top of the pass gives
you amazing views over the Zamin Karor Massif, a seemingly impenetrable chunk
of rock rising almost 2km up. Russian explorer Vostochniy did find a way up and
the pass (up near the waterfall) was named after him. The descent is tricky,
with loose rocks and slippery mud. Take your time. Down by the river (which is
not the Mushtif!) there are plenty of great camping spots.
Section 9
Vostochniy Pass View (2860m)
– Margebi Poyon (2230m) via Tagrich Pass (3560m)
18km
7 hrs
↑ 670m
↓ 1300m
Notes
- Lack of water points after Tagrich Pass
- Feisty shepherds dogs
Enjoying the views from Tagrich Pass (3560m)
Follow the river upstream.
This is relaxed walking after a few hard days! After an hour you’ll encounter
the first side river, easy to jump over. Many green alpine valleys come
together here, you can imagine the Von Trapps singing along here! After
crossing the 2nd side river walk on until you see the bridge, which
you should cross. The incline remains gradual. When you’ve passed the
shepherd’s camp cross two small streams. Then go up the obvious path that leads
towards the Tagrich Pass. Watch out for the shepherd’s dogs here. The pass is
200m higher than the ZTDA map suggests… It is a wonderful pass with awesome
views again. The path down is not really visible from the pass itself. Just
walk straight down a little where you see it zigzagging down. At first it
descents steeply for about 500 altimetres. Then it stays at an altitude of
roughly 3000 metres. After the settlement (where you are likely to be offered
some delicious yoghurt) the path looses altitude again. Eventually it meets a
dirt track that leads you directly to the village of Margebi Poyon, which is
the end of a fantastic trek. There is some world-class big wall climbing here
and you’ll probably see some climbers on the almost 1000 metre vertical walls!
There are homestays in
Margebi Poyon. To get transport back, either pre-arrange it or hitch a ride to
Anzob (5km west) and get a (shared) taxi. A taxi to the hub Sarvoda shouldn’t
be more than 150TJS.
High Pamir
-Tajikistan-
Bachor Mountain Lakes Trek
• Distance: 106km
• Total altitude difference: 2700m
• Highest point: 4630m
• Highest camp: 4580m
Getting to the trailhead
from Khorog
The easiest way is to
arrange a car from Khorog. As the road from the exit on the Pamir Highway to Bachor
(around 18km) is in very poor condition, a jeep is necessary. We arranged the
4-hour drive for US$160. PECTA, situated in the Aga Khan Park, can arrange
transport. We were here during the unrest and PECTA was closed at the time. The
cheap but hard way is to get a marshrutka from Khorog to the turn off to
Bachor. From here you could walk in (full day) with or without a donkey. Or if
you’re lucky you could hitch a ride. Note that there will be days without any
cars as the road to Bachor is a dead end.
There are two homestays in
Bachor: at the entrance of the village (it has a sign). Cars can’t continue
passed this point. The price is US$15 per night including three meals. The
hosts only speak Russian and Pamiri. The other homestay is at the other side of
the village, where the trail starts. How to get there (it’s more complicated
then you think!), will be described in section 0. Staying in Bachor is
recommended to acclimatise, unless you’ve come from Murghab.
Note
Arrange food in Khorog as
the availability of supplies in Bachor is limited
Map “The Pamirs” (1:500.000)
by Markus Hauser is good for planning but is not easy to use for detailed
navigation
Section 0
Bachor (3300m) to the
trailhead and 2nd homestay (3350m)
2km
½ hrs
↑ 50m
Notes
- Spectacular wobbly bridge
Where a mucky river meets the Ghund River, Bachor
The reason for this very
short section is that the route is not so easy to find. From the first homestay
the dirt track turns right after about 100 metres. Keep left where it meets
another track. Take the first path to the right. This zigzags through low trees
to the first bridge over the river Ghund. Turn left after the bridge and follow
the river for about 200 metres. Another, very wobbly, bridge gets you to the
other side again. Stay on the main track
and pass the first houses you see on the right (there’s a small reservoir).
Cross the often soggy field and walk towards the white washed house at the end
of the path. This is the trailhead and the second homestay. Asishlo, the owner
of Pamir Horse Adventures, is based here too. He speaks English and can arrange
guides and facilities.
Section 1
Bachor (3350m) - Ghund
River/Bottom Langar Pass Valley (3660m)
18km
6 hrs
↑ 550m
↓ 240m
At the homestay turn right and after
about 50m hop over the small irrigation channel. The clear trail winds up and
keeps going up and down for a few kilometres. It descends again towards a
shepherd’s camp at the end of a big river valley (that goes up towards
Zarojkul). Cross this valley in a straight line and cross the bridge. Here go
straight up the higher part of the Ghund River bank (about 100m climb). Around
to the riverside is not an option, these are too eroded and steep. After the
descend back to the Ghund the walking is generally pretty easy going. Wander
through patches of low trees all the way to the point where you hit the side
river that feeds from Chapdar Lake. This is a great camp spot. You need to wade
through this river which can be quite fast flowing, so preferably in the
morning (lower water levels).
Section 2
Ghund River/Bottom Langar
Pass Valley (3660m) - Green Pasture (3960m)
10km
4 hrs
↑ 440m
↓ 80m
Note
- Horse Fly country!!
Getting higher!
This is a short and straightforward
day. Wade through the river and walk upstream its true left bank. The path
ascents steeply at first (to overcome a small cliff) and levels out 1km later.
There’s another steep climb a bit later on. After this climb the valley is a
wide plain that goes up gradually with a clear and easy path. Choose your camp
spot at the altitude you feel comfortable with, there are plenty of places to
pick. For this trek description we chose a grassy patch at around 3960m, good
for acclimatisation.
Section 3
Green Pasture (3960m) - Foot
of Langar Pass (4320m)
6km
3 hrs
↑ 450m
↓ 90m
Small tent, big mountains
This is again a short day to avoid
gaining too much altitude. Shortly after the camp spot the path moves away from
the main river to the right (a few hundred metres further is the
confluence of the two main rivers in this valley). Start climbing and cross a
small stream. Keep going up, the path quickly becomes clearly visible again. The terrain remains easy, but it is going up and down a
bit. At 4240m (2 hrs walking) there’s a shepherds camp on a wide, open plain.
This is a good camp spot, but if you want to gain little more altitude (and get
closer to the pass) keep on going for an hour to pitch your tent on another
grassy spot at 4320m.
Section 4
Foot of Langar Pass (4320m) - High
mountain lake –nameless- (4580m) via Langar Pass (4650m)
7km
3.5 hrs
↑ 330m
↓ 70m
5000m+ peaks all around
Staying at altitude is definitely
the biggest challenge and it will be for the days to come. The path is easy and
ascents gradually towards the pass. The view on the pass is phenomenal: icy
5000m+ peaks in the far distance and a turquoise mountain lake just 100m below.
This is your sweet camp spot today!! The opposite side has some flat grounds.
Section 5
High mountain lake -nameless-
(4580m) – Uch Kul (4260m)
12km
3.5 hrs
↑ 80m
↓ 400m
Picture perfect Uch Kul, including some local wildlife
Head west towards the big grassy
plain. In southwesterly direction is the magical Chapdar Lake though you need
to scale a 300m pass, so you can’t see it… Once you’re on the plain turn right
but stay on the true left bank of the river that feeds from the lake you came
from. The path descends (at times steeply) to a broad river valley, heading
north. In the far distance you can already see the first of the three lakes
you’re headed for. Walk in more or less a straight line towards it, and cross
the river/stream when you can. Although the path fades away now and again, the
terrain is easy enough to walk on. A lovely family lives at the end of the
first lake; they will offer you excellent yoghurt, bread and tea. They have
some nice local hats for sale! It’s another hour to the great camp spot on the
shore of Uchkul (the third lake). Nice sandy spot, good water source (you can
even go for a swim!) and awesome views of massive mountains and glaciers.
Section 6
Uch Kul (4260m) - High mountain lake
-nameless- 2 (4420m)
11km
4.5 hrs
↑ 330m
↓ 170m
Awesome Zarojkul
At the end of Uch Kul the route
winds down to the confluence of the rivers feeding from Uch Kul and Zarojkul.
It continues to flow to Lake Sarez. Cross the bridge and head up the small hill
(a family lives here). After the settlement keep following the main river up to
where it forks. Stay on the true right (so left going upwards) and stay at this
stream until you reach the first beautiful lake. You’re essentially on a pretty
big, windswept plateau now. Cross the series of streams feeding this lake, go
around the small second lake (more like a pond) and continue going up in westerly
direction. It’s quite easy to end up in the wrong valley (as we did more than
once…). A short steep section gets you to another magical lake. Only at the
north side there’s a decent camp spot. Again a wonderful place!
Section 7
High mountain lake -nameless- 2 (4420m)
– Turn off to Chapdar Lake (4310m)
13km
6 hrs
↑ 330m
↓ 440m
Note
- Tricky descent
The last translucent mountain lake before the final descent
At first sight this valley looks
like a dead end with big mountains and glaciers ahead. However, a good path
cuts its way through this high alpine terrain. At a slightly higher altitude
there’s another alpine lake that you pass on the right side as well. At the end
of this lake, move left a little bit where it starts climbing towards a third lake
(about 80m) and pass this on the right. The terrain becomes a bit more
challenging, with eroded sections. Go to the top end of the lake and cross over
to the left side where a little higher you can see the fourth lake. Halfway you
may have to climb 100m to bypass a steep snowfield that tumbles all the way
down to the lake. An half an hour’s walk will take you to one of the highlights
of this trek: Zarojkul Lake at 4510m. Big, deep blue and surrounded by an
endless stretch of mountains this is one of the most spectacular mountain lakes
in Tajikistan, if not Central Asia. You could camp here for further
exploration.
Traverse the slope on the east side
and try to keep some altitude as you are headed for a small pass. Once you
passed the small peninsula and the rocky outcrops, meet with a path that moves
away and up from Zarojkul in southeasterly direction. It drops again to a small
lake. Keep on walking down in the same direction and follow the river that
comes in sight shortly. Just after 1km cross (easy wading) the river before it
evolves in another brilliant translucent lake. The descent gets more difficult.
You need to hop many boulders, staying close to the river. When the valley
widens, cross the river again where you can hop from boulder to boulder. You’re
on the true left bank now. Descent for 45 minutes and find one of the best camp
spots on this trek at the turquoise lake.
Section 8
Turn off to Chapdar Lake (4310m) -
Hot spring Camp (3750m)
10km
4 hrs
↑ 60m
↓ 620m
The route goes left around the lake.
The big valley on your left (where you cross a number of streams) leads to
Chapdar Lake. The terrain is bouldery and makes walking slightly difficult. At
the end of this lake, move to the right a little and follow the path winding
through the big moraines. It stays level at first and there is even a small
climb. But it’ll drop down at some point, with some treacherous sections. This
is one of the toughest bits of the entire trek. It’ll take about 1.5 hrs to
reach the main river. You will stay on the true left of the river, the path
remains clearly visible. The first trees come in sight, a very welcoming
addition to the landscape! Gradually the air gets thicker as you altitudes
below 4000m. At around 3800m there’s a confluence of the two main rivers. Stay
on the left, half an hour later there’s a green pasture to pitch your tent.
This is an excellent base to visit the hot spring (unfortunately an hours climb
up…). The information how to get here will be added, we didn’t go ourselves due
to an injury.
Section 9
Hot spring Camp (3750m) – Bachor
(3300)m
17km
4.5 hrs
↑ 80m
↓ 530m
Although this valley seems endless,
the walking is easy and the path straightforward. The river plunges down
savagely, cruise through small forests on its banks. Almost at the end of this
valley there’s a big field of boulders. Eventually you get to the place you’ve
been before: the bridge! Keep in mind it still takes 1.5 hrs to reach the first
homestay in Bachor and another 45 minutes to reach the second one. Endless cups
of tea, yoghurt and bread are waiting for you!
Pik Engels Meadows Trek
Section 1
Langar – Plateau at base Pik Engels
13km
5 hours
↑ 1150m
From the Wakhan Valley nothing gives away the existence of one of the most beautiful peaks in the Pamirs, just half a days’ walk away: Pik Engels (6510m). In summer time the green pastures at the base of the peak are inhabited by Pamiri shepherds. From the suggested campsite it is possible to walk up to the base of the mountain which is guarded by a white wall of glaciers; and the mountain ridge leading to the shoulder of both Pik Karl Marx and Pik Engels offers the unique possibility of a relatively easy trek up a six thousand metre mountain.
Make sure you carry enough water for the first section of the trek: the steep trail is exposed to the sun virtually all day and there is no water until the trail meets up with the gorge. Finding the trailhead is tricky. Cross the bridge at the MSDSP office and follow the path that stays on the top end of the village. This will lead to the sign for the petro glyphs (N37˚03.295, E072˚40.566). Several (shepherd) trails wind their way up the dry and rocky slope. Avoid walking close to the slabs that dominate the left part of the slope. Herds of goats often cause rocks to roll down in great speed. All the trails lead upwards at varying gradients and meet with the man made trail along the irrigation channel, about six hundred altimetres above Langar. This section takes about 1.5-2hr.
Approach Pik Engels
On the horizon a dramatic landscape unfolds, dotted with the white spiky peaks of the Hindu Kush on the Afghan side of the Wakhan Corridor. The wide valley is split by the Panj River, the confluence of the Pamir River (in the old days known as the Oxus) and the Wakhan River. The views from this part of the trail are absolutely breathtaking. The most distinct mountain visible is the pyramid shaped Baba Tungi (6513m).
Continue the almost level trail towards the gorge while keeping Langar on your right hand side. The path turns left into the gorge. From here you’ll catch the first glimpse of Pik Engels. Keep walking along the irrigation channel for another 2km until you reach the little dam that partly diverts the glacial stream (3500m). The view, the space and the availability of water makes this an excellent place for a rest. From here it will take another 2hr to reach the Pik Engels Meadows. The path roughens a bit and sometimes you’ll have to find your own way along the river bank over boulders. It’s straightforward where to go: after the boulders a grassy plain leads to the well worn trail that zigzags up about hundred fifty altimetres. After this section the valley widens and levels out as you approach one of the most spectacular places you’ll ever camp.
Admiring Pik Engels
Side trip 1
Pik Engels from close up
From the campsite it is possible to walk up to the base of the mountain. This will take 4-6 hr return; the actual distance and gain in altitude is more than it appears to be. As you approach Pik Engels, stay on the left side of the pastures. You have to cross the glacial stream twice until you reach the moraine (20min); take care not to lose your footing as you cross the stream, and pick your crossing points carefully. You pass the glacial lake on the left hand side. The path fades, but finding your way is easy as the direction is very obvious. After one hour you will reach the tongue of the glacier, which at this stage is covered with soil and rocks. The terrain becomes rough and steep with big and sometimes unstable boulders. Again stay on the left side of the glacier. The climb up this moraine section (three hundred altimetres) will take about an hour. On the top at 4400m the view of the mighty Pik Engels is unforgettable. The return trip is the same way back with Baba Tungi dominating the horizon.
Routes of side trips as seen from Pik Engels
Side trip 2
Climb a 6000m side peak of Pik Engels
The ridge on the left hand side (when facing Pik
Engels) offers a great opportunity to climb a mountain over 6000m without any
technical difficulties. The unnamed mountain (6075m) is a side peak of Engels.
Only well acclimatised trekkers should attempt the strenuous climb. The best
month to do it is August as the weather is most stable and the snow levels are
lowest. It is possible to make the two thousand two hundred metre ascent in one
very long day (12-14hr return), but setting up a high camp half way makes the
experience a lot more enjoyable.
Behind the pastures a shepherds trail winds up
the spur that leads to the main ridge on the left. Follow the trail until you
reach a small grassy plateau with a ruined stone building (4300m). As the trail
disappears keep walking up with the steep cliffs on your left. After 2hr of
climbing from the campsite you’re standing on the ridge with in front of you
two of the most distinct mountains in the southern Pamirs and behind you an
ocean of six and seven thousand metre mountains as far as the eye can see.
Continue walking up the ridge. The snow line is
likely to be around 4800m to 5200m later in the season. A convenient place to
camp would be around the snow line: You don’t have to pitch the tent on snow
and water is available. Throughout the ridge there are enough flat spots for
camping.
At 5200m the terrain steepens and the ridge
becomes sharper, though it is still broad enough to walk on without an axe. The
summit in front of you (5700m) is a false one. Another sharp ridge that dips
down a hundred metres to rise again to the actual summit is a tough but
rewarding four hundred metre ascent. On the summit you can see as far as the
Chinese province of Xinjiang with the giants Muztagh Ata (7548m) and Kongur
(7649m) marking the gate to the Kunlun Mountains. In the north the High Pamirs
are just visible between Pik Karl Marx and Pik Engels. And the Hindu Kush in the
south with Tirich Mir (7690m) in Pakistan as the highest peak may inspire you
for your next visit to this fascinating region.
Bare in mind that the descent down to “base
camp” is at least 4-5 hr so head back in time.
