Early exit from Badakhshan/Pamirs

The 24th of July Remco and I hopped in a jeep bound for Khorog, the capital of the Pamir region. Apart from the usual delays at the check points, the trip seemed to run smoothly. Until news arrived that there was a 'situation' in Khorog, involving violence with casualties. Stories along the road made clear that extreme violence broke out in Khorog between the government military and a local group and that 40 deaths were reported.

Khorog civilians building road blocks

I couldn't believe it, Khorog is such a peaceful city, with all its hospitality and relaxed atmosphere. We planned the start of our Pamir crossing in Vanj, but without knowing exactly what was going on we decided to travel further and make a decision later what to do. Hindsight, we should have gotten off earlier. But we felt we had to get information before heading into a possible hazardous mountain territory. We ended up in a Khorog guesthouse, advised to stay in. Seeing groups of foreigners leaving the centre in the hope to catch a ride near the airport we decided to pack our bags and leave again. Only to return again a few hours later, spending the night in Khorog. Gun shots and heavy artilliry kept us awake and worried about the next day. Malte, a German fellow traveler, managed to arrange a car for the next day heading eastwards to a mountain village called Bachor. We managed to get there and did a fantastic 7 day trek in the area (see next post).

Returning to Khorog (virtually all traffic through the Pamirs passes Khorog) was again insecure. Still recovering from the high altitude trek we were woken up by the Tajik security service GKNB with the request to leave Badakhshan as soon as possible. Three hours later we took off from Khorog airport on our way to Dushanbe....

Leaving Khorog with mixed emotions...

The crossing of the Pamirs unfortunately never happened. But more important is that peace returns to the region.

For more background information and travel advice there's an excellent piece on Robert Middleton's website pamirs.org.

Boot Repair...

Getting the boots through their last 20 days of mountains...

Yagnob and Fan Mountains treks completed!

The first two trekkings in the north of Tajikistan have been completed. We started deep in the Zerafshan Valley in a village called Langar. After a three day approach through rivers and over massive snow fields we went over the Tabaspin Pass (4040m). On the other side we entered the magical, almost mythical river valley of the Yagnob.

Although there is no permanent habitation in the Upper Yagnob we did encounter several goat herders with their herd of goats. In July there were still enormous snow bridges that allows trekkers to cross the Yagnob. Downstream daytime temperatures started rising (it ws HOT!), and the slopes become more and more bleak. At some point we decided to start at 5am and had a siesta around noon to avoid the heat. After spectacular passages like the gorge below, and some challenging passes we arrived in Magrebi Poyon after 8 days.

We hitched a ride to Anzob and arranged a taxi to Iskander Kul for about 400 TJK. Another (mad) ride took us to the trailhead for the second leg through the Fan Mountains.Very different landscape, much wetter (we had a little bit of rain, which was very welcome!) and trees. Steep ascends and sections of nice gradual incline brought us in two days to the Upper Akhbashir Valley, where the approach to the Akhbashir (also called Sarymat) Pass starts.

The approach to the 4160m high pass is long. It took us 6,5 of ploughing through wet soil and soft snow to get to the summit. But the view was absolutely worth it!

The descent was definitely top three most horrible descents in my trekking "career". Traversing steep scree most of the descent, slushy snow and aggressive shepherd dogs worn us completely out (1300m down on horendous terrain). No path whatsoever. I really wonder why the crossing of this pass is mentioned as an existing route. Not recommended unless you like the kind of terrain described earlier.

In September I will update this and the coming route on this site with proper descriptions and more photographs. Off to the Pamirs in two days!

Packing Mayhem

Tomorrow I'm off! I'm flying Turkish Airlines and will meet up with my buddy Pete at the whisky shop at Istanbul Airport. Everything fits in the backpack, with 30kg allowance no worries about excess baggage. 40 degrees Celsius Dushanbe here we come!

Training sessions

The past 1,5 month I have been able to get out for a few good walks in preparation of Tajikistan (I would have done them anyways!...)

The Overland Track, Tasmania

Dreadful conditions during a climb of the volcano at Kolombangara Island, Solomon Islands

The last walk in my local hills before heading out to Tajikistan in the Pentlands just outside Edinburgh, earlier today with Pete Wooding.

Route maps Zerafshan and Pamir treks

This is the intended route crossing the Zerafshan Range (Northern Tajikistan), starting east end finishing at the 7 lakes south of Penjikent.

After the Zerafshan we will be travelling to Vanj, the trailhead for the Pamir traverse. The trek finishes in the Tajik part of the Wakhan Corridor, at the border with Afghanistan.

Support from Adventure Food

Manufacturer of freeze dried meals Adventure Food has been so kind to support my research trip in Tajikistan with their meals. I can't wait for their Goulash (I ordered quite a few), my favourite!! Thanks Marcel and Ivo!!